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HICKS' 

BUILDERS' GUIDE, 

COMPRISING 

An Easy, Practical System of Estimating: Material 
and Labor 



Carpenters, Contractors and Builders. 

A COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE TO THOSE ENGAGED 

IN THE VARIOUS BRANCHES OF THE 

BUILDING TRADES. 

REVISED AND ENLARGED. 

By l/Pf hicks. 



ILLUSTRATED BY NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS OF ORIGINAL 
DRAWINGS. 



TWENTIETH THOUSAND 

CORRECTED. 
PRICE, ONE DOLLAR. 



DAVID WILLIAMS COMPANY. PUBLISHER. 

14-16 Park Place, New York. 
1910. 






Copyright, 1893, 1903, 1910. 

BY 

I. P. HICKS. 



x^^ 



10- 




©CIA268463 



INTRODUCTORY. 



o With the large and sustained sale of Hicks' 

^ Builders' Guide the author has the gratifying 

assurance that his book has been as useful to pro- 
gressive Builders, Contractors and Carpenters as 
he anticipated. In the present edition a number 
of necessary revisions and changes are intro- 
duced. Particular attention has been given to 
the section devoted to estimating labor and ma- 
terial, which is amplified and brought down to 

date. 

I. P. Hicks. 



The importance of such a work as " Hicks' Build- 
ers' Guide " will be apparent to all making an in- 
spection of its contents, while every one who will give 
its pages a few hours of careful consideration and 
attention cannot fail tO' appreciate the convenience 
and usefulness of the volume. From actual experience 
I know there are many things about building which, 
if arranged for concise and ready reference and put 
into book form, would be a valuable aid to carpen- 
ters, contractors and builders. The frequent inquiries 
which I have seen in building journals have led me to 
the belief that a book condensed in form, giving in an 
easy, practical way general items of interest and value 
to the trades addressed, is much needed. 

In this volume it has been the object of the author 
to point out how mistakes may be avoided in making 
estimates and to introduce a practical system for 
making such estimates, thus enabling the carpenter 
or builder to do the work with greater accuracy. The 
information in this work has been collected from the 
close observation and actual experience of a practical 
workman, who has spent years in the execution of just 
that class of work with which the majority of work- 
men meet from day to day. 

That the information, methods and rules set forth 
in this work may serve to instruct and benefit all who 
become the possessor of a copy of it is the earnest 
wish of The Author. 



POINTS ON ESTIMATING. 

To the carpenter and contractor there is nothing 
of more importance than accurate estimating, for it 
is one on which success in business largely depends. 
What is it worth? is a question very frequently asked 
the carpenter, and he is expected to know at once 
everything about a building. What is it worth to 
build a house like Mr. Blank's? What is it worth to 
build a porch on my house ? What is it worth to build 
a bay window on my house ? How much more will it 
cost to put sliding doors in my house than folding 
doors? Similar questions by the hundred are daily 
asked the carpenter, and the persons inquiring natu- 
rally expect a prompt answer and a reliable estimate. 
The question. What is it worth? is often a difficult 
one to answer, and when applied to a hundred differ- 
ent things it is no wonder the carpenter finds himself 
beset with difficulties. That thousands of mechanics 
have long felt the need of some reliable and practical 
method of estimating material and labor required in 
building there can be no doubt. 

To make an estimate for a building always requires 
a careful consideration of the plans and specifications, 
as well as a considerable amount of figuring. Prac- 
tical experience and personal familiarity with every 
item that enters into the construction of a building is 
what every man needs in order to become a good 
estimator; yet this is no reason why he cannot learn 
or profit from the experience of others. In this 

7 



8 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



hustling, bustling age of the world the easiest, qtiickest 
and surest way of estimating is needed. Such a 
method can only be acquired by close attention to 
business, adopting means and methods which will be 
a safeguard against mistakes, and by learning to esti- 
mate actual quantities. Before proceeding further 
with this subject it will be well to explain some of 
the principal terms used in measuring distances, sur- 
faces and solids. 



LINEAR MEASURE. 

This is used in measuring distances where length 
only is considered — without regard to breadth or 
depth. It is frequently called lineal measure, mean- 
ing measured in a line without regard to breadth or 
depth. It is sometimes called 

line measure. Fig. i shows a ■ 

lineal foot, drawn to a scale of i 
inch to the foot, the three figures 
following being to other scales. 

SQUARE MEASURE. 

This is used in measuring sur- 
faces or things whose length and 
breadth are considered without 
regard to hight or depth, as 
sheeting, flooring, plastering, &c. 
Fig, 2 shows a square foot. In 
the measurement of lumber, square measure is fre- 
quently termed board measure, and when used as board 
measure the thickness is considered as one inch. A 
square is a figure which has four equal sides and all 
its angles right angles, as shown in Fig. 2. Hence a 



Fig. 1. — Lineal Foot. 



Fig. : 



-A Square 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



square inch is a square the sides of which are each 
a hneal inch in length. A square foot is a square the 
sides of which are each a hneal foot in length, as rep- 
resented in the diagram. A square yard is a square 
the sides of which are each a lineal yard in length 
and contains 9 square feet, as shown in Fig. 3. Square 
measure is so called because its measuring unit is a 
square. The standard of square measure is derived 
from the standard linear measure. Hence a unit of 
square measure is a square the sides of which are re- 



9 square feet = 1 square yard 






















Fig. 3. — A Square Yard. 



Fig. 4. — A Cubic Foot. 



spectively equal in length to the linear unit of the same 
name. 

CUBIC MEASURE. 

This is used in measuring solid bodies or things 
which have length, breadth and thickness, such as 
stone masonry, the capacity of bins, boxes, rooms, &c. 
A cube is a solid body bounded by six equal sides. It 
is often called a hexahedron. Hence, a cubic inch is 
a cube each of the sides of which is a square inch. A 
cubic foot is a cube with each of its sides a square foot, 
as shown in Fig. 4. 



lO THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 

Cubic measure is so called because its measuring 
unit is a cube. The standard of cubic measure is de- 
rived from the standard linear measure. A unit of 
cubic measure therefore is a cube whose sides are 
respectively equal in length to the linear unit of the 
same name. 

ITEMS AND QUANTITIES. 

Having explained the terms used in the measure- 
ment of material the next step will be to consider the 
method of es'.imating the same. In estimating the 
lumber required for a building there are many parts 
for which the amounts required may be listed in a 
convenient form of table. For example, if we know 
the amount of material of one kind required for one 
window frame, we can multiply this amount by the 
number of frames and obtain the total amount at 
once of this kind of material required for frames, and 
so on with various other parts. Much time will be 
saved by having a list of this kind, and it will aid 
very much to insure correctness in estimating.-'' Fol- 
lowing is a list of items giving the amount of lum- 
ber required for various parts of buildings arranged 
for concise and ready reference : 

LIST OF ITEMS AND QUANTITIES REQUIRED. 

Feet. 

Jamb casings for windows, %-inch finish 10 

Jamb casings for windows, li/4-incb finish 12 

Jamb casings for doors, %-inch finish 10 

Jamb casings for doors, li^-inch finish 12 

Jamb casings for doors, l^/^-inch finish 15 

Jamb casings for doors, 2-inch finish 20 

Outside casings for windows, %-inch finish 8 

Outside casings for windows, li/4-inch finish. ... 10 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. II 

Outside casings for doors, %-inch finish 10 

Outside casings for doors, 114-inch finish 12 

Inside window casings, lineal measure 20 

Inside door casings, one side, lineal measure .... IG to 18 

Inside door casings, two sides, lineal measure. .32 to 36 

Band molding window frames 16 

Band molding door frames, one side . ] 6 to 18 

Band molding door frames, two sides 32 to 36 

Cap trim finish, for average size frames, for each 

member 4 

Molding outside caps of frames 4 

Sills for windows, per frame, lineal measure. . . 3% 

Sills for doors, per frame, lineal measure 4 

Window stops, per frame 12 to 16 

Parting stops, per frame 12 to 16 

Door stops, per frame 16 to 18 

Porch columns, board measure 24 to 30 

Brackets, board measure 4 to 6 

Horses and treads for stairs, 1^-inch finish. . . .90 to 110 

For risers and finish about stairs, %-inch finish. 30 to 60 

Shelving for pantries 50 to 100 

Shelving common closets 4 to 8 

PKACTICAL RULES FOR ESTIMATING. 

To 3-inch fiooring add one-third for the matching. 
To 4-inch flooring add one-fourth for the matching. 
To 6-inch flooring add one-fifth for the matching. 
To 4-inch ceiling add one-third for the matching, 
lo 6-inch ceiling add one-fifth for the matching. 
To 8-inch shiplap add one-sixth for the matching. 
To 10-inch shiplap add one-eighth for the matching. 
To 12-inch shiplap add one-tenth for the matching. 

ESTIMATING SIDING. 

Beveled siding is made 4 and 6 inches wide. In 

estimating the quantity required for ordinary jobs 
add one-fifth for the 6 inch and one-third for the 

4 inch. Make no deductions for openings. The 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



amount gained by the openings with the allowance 
for the lap will be found sufficient to cover the waste 
in cutting, and will hold out complete on any job, and 
the above method is easy to figure. 

ESTIMATING SHEETING. 

In estimating sheeting for shingle roofs make no 
allowance for spreading boards. Calculate the same 
as for close sheeting a roof, for what is gained in 
spreading the boards is generally lost in the cutting. 
The boards should never be placed more than 2 inches 
apart for a good roof. Sheeting for gutters on roofs 
having box cornices is an item often forgotten. These 
gutters are variously formed, but usually consist of 
four pieces of sheeting, forming a bottom, two sides 
and a fillet next to the crown molding. The combined 
width of these pieces is from i to 2 feet. Hence the 
amount of lumber required for gutters may be found 
by multiplying the length of the gutters by the com- 
bined width of the pieces which form it. 

For example, suppose the length of gutters on a 
building is 42 feet, and to form the bottom, sides and 
fillet requires a board equal to i^ feet wide, how 
much lumber will be required? Operation: 42 X i^ 
= 63 feet. 

The sheeting for gutters often amounts to several 
hundred feet on large jobs, and is a matter worthy 
of attention. Sheeting is one of the items of which 
carpenters usually fall short. The reason is obvious, 
it being one of the cheapest kinds of material. It is 
used for many purposes for which the carpenter does 
not count. Wherever a board is wanted for one pur- 
pose or another a sheeting board is taken, provided 



THE BUILDERS* GUIDE. 1 3 

it will answer, while several hundred feet are usually 
employed in building scaffolds. A large portion of 
this is wasted by being nailed, sawed and split. It is 
safe to say that in estimating sheeting one-fifth should 
be added to the net estimate. 

ESTIMATING SHINGLES. 

In estimating shingles allow nine to the square foot 
when laid 4^ inches to the weather, and eight to the 
square foot when laid 5 inches to the weather. Com- 
mon shingles are estimated to average 4 inches wide, 
and 250 are put up in a bunch, there being four bunches 
to the thousand. 

Dimension shingles are usually 5 or 6 inches wide, 
150 to 180 being put in a bunch, and four bunches 
counted 1000. In reality there are not 1000 shingles, 
but being wider than the average of common shingles 
they are counted the same. There is more waste in 
laying dimension shingles than the common ones. 
One-sixth should be allowed for waste in laying di- 
mension shingles. 

ESTIMATING STUDDING. 

To estimate studding for the outside walls and par- 
titions in houses, estimate them 12 inches from cen- 
ters, then when they are set the usual distance, 16 
inches from centers, there will be enough for all neces- 
sary doubling around doors, windows and corners. I 
prefer this rule for the following reasons: i. Because 
it is easier to count the studding 12 inches from cen- 
ters than 16, as the number of feet in length of an 
outside wall or partition gives the number of studding, 
and is seen at once. 2. Mistakes are less liable thar 



14 THE BUILDERS" GUIDE. 

in estimating i6 inches from centers, and adding for 
double studding, as in adding for double studding 
more than one-half the places requiring double stud- 
ding will be overlooked. This rule is not intended 
to make up for things left out, but is only for making 
up the number of double studding required around 
doors, windows and corners. Plates and other places 
requiring studding must be estimated separately. Stud- 




Fig. 5. — Floor Plan of a One-Story Cottage, Showing Walls 
and Partitions. 

ding is another item of which carpenters usually fall 
short, for the simple reason that many are used in 
places that were overlooked in the carpenter's estimate. 
To prove beyond a doubt that the method of estimat- 
ing 12 inches from centers can be relied upon, we will 
give a plan. Fig. 5, of the outside walls and partitions 
of a one-story cottage, and a practical example illus- 
trating the method of estimating. 

Referring to the plan, it will be observed that the 
size is 24 X 32 feet, and that the length of each par- 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 15 

titlon is given. We will suppose it to be a lo-foot 
story. Now, by the plan it is necessary only to add 
the length of the outside walls and the partitions to- 
gether to obtain the number of studding required. 
The operation is as follows : 

Feet. 

Two outside walls, 32 feet each 64 

Two outside walls, 24 feet each 48 

One inside partition 32 

One inside partition 14 

Three inside partitions, 10 feet each 30 

One inside partition 4 

Total 192 

Thus we see that the total number required is 192 
studding. Now, by the old way of estimating we 
would have to find the feet as above. Multiply by 
12, because 12 inches make 'a foot, and divide the 
product by 16 inches, the distance the studding are 
to be placed from centers. By the old method the 
work of estimating has but just commenced, but we 
will help it out a little by an occasional short cut. 
If we multiply 192 feet by 3 and divide by 4 the re- 
sult will be the same as though we multiplied by 12 
and divided by 16, thus: 192 X 3 -^ 4 = 144 stud- 
ding, the number required without any doubling. 
Now comes the work of counting up the places re- 
quiring double studding, which is more bothersome 
than all the rest put together. In cutting out for the 
windows the pieces that come out will make the 
headers ; consequently, if the sides are doubled it will 
take about three studding to two windows. Now, 
there are eight windows, which require 12 studding. 



1 6 THE builders' GUIDE. 

This amount can nearly always be saved, as most 
window frames are made for weights, and the stud- 
ding has to be set far enough away from the jambs 
to allow the weights to work freely, and when thus 
set they seldom require doubling. In cutting out for 
the doors the pieces that come out will double one 
side, and it will require one lo-foot studding to double 
the other side and make the header. There are eight 
doors on the plan, consequently eight lo-foot studding 
will be required for them. Th^re are four outside 
corners, to double which will require four studding. 
There are 12 inside partition angles, which v/e will 
suppose in this case to require two studding to the 
corner, which they will not, as one studding has been 
included in the partition, but we will call it two to the 
corner, which will make 24 studding. Now, let us 
sum up and notice the results. 
Number of studding estimated 16 inches from centers . . . 144 

Number of studding for doubling around windows 12 

Number of studding required for doubling around doors . 8 
Number of studding for doubling four outside corners . . 4 
Number of studding for doubling 12 partition angles 24 

Total 192 

Thus, after allowing an abundance for doubling, 
we still come out even. After all our figuring, the 
old method has only proven the correctness of the new, 
and, as it is so much easier than the old, it may meet 
with favor. 

It is usually the case that studding estimated 12 
inches on centers will more than hold out when set 
16 inches on centers. It is claimed by some that stud- 
ding estimated 12 inches on centers and set 16 inches 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 17 

will make up for all plates required and all necessary- 
doubling. If all places are doubled where required 
and all necessary plates put in, we are inclined to doubt 
this plan being perfectly safe in all cases. The. i foot 
apart method is perfectly safe and, as we have stated 
before, will usually overrun. To estimate a little closer 
and still be on the safe side, estimate 12 inches from 
centers and deduct one-tenth. Thus, if we had 180 
lineal feet of studded partitions, deduct one-tenth, 
which would be 180 — 18 ^ 162 studding, and this is 
very easy to figure. 

As for myself, I can say that I have used the method 
of estimating studding 12 inches from centers with 
perfect satisfaction and have always had a few left. 
I not only consider it the easiest, but the most accurate 
way of estimating studding for outside walls and par- 
titions. 

At the present day the frame work of most houses 
is composed principally of studding, such as are used 
in the outside walls and partitions. This is especially 
true regarding the plates, rafters and sometimes the 
ceiling joists. The plates on the outside walls are 
usually doubled and the partition walls usually have 
a single plate, top and bottom. The outside walls of 
small buildings do not require plates across the ends, 
but on tall buildings it becomes necessary to extend 
the plates across the ends. To estimate the number 
of studding required for plates, add together in feet 
the lengths of the outside walls and partitions which 
require plates and divide by the length of studding 
used for plates. For example, suppose it is required 
to put plates all around on the plan shown in Fig. 5, 



1 8 THE builders' GUIDE. 

which is 192 feet, including outside walls and parti- 
tions, and that the length of studding used is 16 feet; 
then 192 -f- 16 ^ 12, which represents the number 
of studding required for a single plate. This amount 
doubled will give the number required for double 
plates on the outside walls and single plates top and 
bottom on the partition walls, making 24 studding, 
the net amount, to which should be added one-eighth 
for waste in cutting, making in all 27, the number 
required for plates. If the outside walls and partitions 
do not have the same amount of doubling, or the same 
number of pieces for plates, then they will have to 
be estimated separately. 

ESTIMATING FLOOR JOISTS. 

These are usually placed 16 inches from centers, 
except for floors which are to carry very heavy 
weights. In these the joists are frequently placed 12 
inches from centers. To estimate them 12 inches from 
centers add i to the number of feet in length of one 
wall on which the joists are placed. For example, 
suppose a building is 32 feet long and the joists are 
placed 12 inches from centers. We simply add i to 
32, which makes 33, the number of joists required 
for one span. If there are similar spans it will only 
be necessary to multiply by the number of spans. If 
the spans are unlike, then estimate each span sepa- 
rately. If the joists are placed 16 inches from centers, 
then multiply the length of wall by }i and add i. This 
will give the required number. Thus if the wall is 
32 feet long, then 32 X ^ + i = 25, the number 
required for one span. The reason for adding i is 



THE builders' GUIDE. I9 

because the first operation, that of muUiplying by ^, 
gives the number of spaces between joists, and one 
joist more than there are spaces is always required, 
except in cases where the sills serve the place of a 
joist. In such a case the exact number will be one 
less than the number of spaces. A few extra joists 
are usually required for doubling and framing headers 
around stairways, chimney, &c. A little attention 
given to a plan will show the number required for 
this purpose. Ceiling joists, collar beams and rafters 
may be estimated in the same manner. 

ESTIMATING CORNICE. 

A cornice usually consists of several members, the 
most common kind being known as the five-member 
cornice, which consists of a planceer, fascia, frieze, 
crown and bed molding. To estimate the quantity 
of lumber required for a cornice, multiply the length 
in feet by the combined width of the planceer, fascia 
and frieze in feet. Thus if the planceer is 12 inches 
wide, the fascia 4 inches and the frieze 12 inches, the 
combined width is 28 inches, which reduced to feet 
equals 2^. Now, if we have a cornice 120 feet long 
and 2^4 feet wide, the operation will be as follows : 
120 X ^Vz = 280 feet, net amount. In cutting up 
lumber for cornice there is always more or less waste, 
and it is safe to say that one-eighth should be added 
to the net figures. One-eighth of 280 is 35 ; thus the 
total amount required is 315 feet board measure. The 
bed and crown molding will each be the same as the 
length of the cornice, with one-eighth added for waste 
in cutting. One-eighth of 120 feet is 15 ; thus the 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



total amount of molding required is 135 feet lineal 
measure. It usually takes a few feet more of the crown 
molding than of the bed molding on account of the 
crown molding being on the outside line of the cor- 
nice. This difference is hardly worth noticing except 
on large jobs. The difference usually amounts to from 
2 to 3 feet per square turn in the cornice, and is usually 
estimated by counting the number of turns. 

ESTIMATING CORNER CASINGS. 

The width of the average corner casing is about 5 
inches, and the easiest and quickest way to estimate 
material for this purpose is to allow i foot board 
measure to each lineal foot in hight per corner. Thus 
the hight of a corner in feet gives the number of feet 
board measure required, and is very easy to calculate. 
For example, if a building has 18 feet studding for 
outside walls it will require 18 feet of lumber, board 
measure, per corner for corner casings. Many houses 
have what are commonly termed belt courses. These 
are usually casings of the same width as the corner 
casings and extend around the building at the top or 
bottom of the window and door frames. To esti- 
mate these find the number of feet, lineal measure, 
required and divide by 2, which gives the amount in 
board measure. Board measure is understood to mean 
I inch thick. One quarter must be added for i^-inch 
lumber, and one-half for i^-inch lumber. In esti- 
mating corner casings and belt casings in the manner 
just described nothing need be added for waste, be- 
cause we have estimated the casings 6 inches wide 
when only 5 inches are required. This allowance is 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



sufficient to cover the waste and makes the computation 
much easier. 

MISTAKES FROM OMISSIONS. 

Having given the reader the essential points and 
short cuts in estimating material, we will now point 
out what is considered a source of frequent mistakes, 
and give a safeguard for it. In estimating material 
many mistakes are made from omissions. A bill of 
material for the construction of a building always re- 
quires a long list of items, and it frequently happens 
that some items have been forgotten and left entirely 
out of consideration. Probably more serious mistakes 
in estimating material arise from this cause than any 
other. They are very discouraging to the contractor. 
They are things he did not count on, but nevertheless 
he has them to buy, and as extras he always has to pay 
more for them than he would had he included them 
in his original bill. Now, if a person had an itemized 
list of the material entering into the construction of 
a building, there is no doubt by comparing his bill 
with the list mistakes from omitting items would be 
avoided. In a bill there are many items of material 
that are used for different purposes and different parts 
of a building, hence to make a list complete in every 
detail it should mention the part of a building for 
which each kind of material is used. In the list fol- 
lowing the items which are likely to be used for more 
than one purpose or part of a building are in full-face 
type, and the different parts for which the same are 
likely to be used are in type of the usual face: 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



LIST OF ITEMS FOR 

Sills. 

Side Sills. 
End Sills.- 
Middle Sills. 
Trimmers. 

Posts. 

Main Posts. 

Center Posts. 

Door Posts. 

Basement Posts. 
Girts. 

Main Girts. 

Side Girts. 

Tie Girts. 
Joists. 

First Floor. 

Second Floor. 

Third Floor. 

Ceiling Joists. 

Porch Joists. 
Studding. 

Side Studding. 

Gable Studding. 
Partition Studding. 



Plates. 
Porches. 
Bay Windows. 
Koof Timbers. 

Common Rafters. 
Hip Rafters. 
Valley Rafters. 
Jack Rafters. 
Trusses. 
Purlins. 
Collar Beams. 



ESTIMATING LUMBER. 

Sheeting. 

Outside Walls. 

Roof Sheeting. 

Gutters. 

Floor Lining. 

Shiplap Sheeting. 
Shingles. 

Dimension Shingles. 
Siding. 

Beveled Siding. 

Cove Siding. 

Barn Siding. 

Battens. 

Ys Ogee Battens. 

i/^-inch Battens. 

Lattice. 
Furring . 

1x2 Inch. 

2x2 Inch. 
Fencing. 

4 Inch. 

6 Inch. 
Paper. 

Straw Board. 

Tarred Board. 
Finish, % Inch. 

Outside Base. 

Bay Window Finish. 

Porch Finish. 

Cornice. 

Brackets. 

Stair Risers. 

Jamb Casings. 

Pantry Shelves. 

Closet Shelves. 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



23 



Finish 1}{ Inch. 

Outside Casings. 

Corner Boards. 

Jamb Casings. 

Porch Finish. 

Bay Window Finish. 

Scroll Work. 

Stairs and Steps. 

Outside Steps. 
Finish, 2 Inch, 

Door Sills. 

Window Sills. 

Jamb Casing. 

Brackets. 

Cellar Stairs. 
Finish, 1% Inch. 

Outside Casings. 

Outside Steps. 

Finish, I4 Inch. 

Panels. 

Drawer Bottoms. 

Flooring. 

Main Floors. 

Kitchen Floor. 

Dining Room Floor. 

Porch Floors. 
Ceiling. 

Porch Ceilings. 

Panels. 

Wainscoting. 

Lining Partitions. 
Inside Finish. 

Casings. 

Corner Blocks. 

Plinth Blocks. 



Base. 

Stair Rail. 
Newel Posts. 
Balusters. 

Molding. 

Bed Molding. 

Crown Molding. 

Panel Molding. 

Cove Molding. 

Base Molding. 

Band Molding. 

Quarter Round. 

Door Stops. 

Window* Stops. 

Parting Stops. 

Wainscoting Cap. 

Window Stools. 

Water Table. 

Thresholds. 
Doors, Main. 

Front Doors. 

Sliding Doors. 

Closet Doors. 

Cupboard Doors. 

Cellar Doors. 
Windows. 

Bay Windows. 

Pantry Windows. 

Cellar Windows. 

Transoms. 

Art Glass. 

Plate Glass. 
Blinds. 

Outside Blinds. 

Inside Blinds. 
Corner Beads. 



GEOMETRICAL MEASUREflENT OF ROOFS. 

In the measurement of carpentry work there is 
probably no part so difficult to master as the accurate 
measurement of roofs, particularly where they are 
composed of hips and valleys forming a great variety 
of irregular surfaces. The shapes of roofs having 
hips, valleys and gables are usually represented in the 
form of some triangle. The different forms of tri- 




Figs. 6-10. — Diflferent Forms of Triangles. 



Fig. 11. — A Square. 



Fig. 12. — A Rectangle. 



angles are shown in the diagrams. Fig. 6 representing 
an equilateral triangle. Fig. J an isosceles triangle, 
Fig. 8 a right-angled triangle. Fig. 9 an obtuse-angled 
triangle and Fig. 10 a scalene triangle. Figs. 6, 7 and 
10 are also acute-angled triangles. Fig. 11 shows a 
square and Fig. 12 a rectangle. It is a very easy mat- 
ter to compute the area or surface measurement of a 
square or a rectangle. The area of a square or a rec- 
24 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



25 



tangle is found by multiplying its length by its breadth. 
In computing roof measurements all triangles can be 
reduced to squares or rectangles of equal areas by 
very simple methods. 

FINDING THE AREA OF A GABLE. 

Referring to Fig. 13, A B C represents the gable 

of a building of which A C is the width and D B is 

the perpendicular hight. 

By dividing the gable 

on the line D B we have 

two triangles of equal 

areas and equal sides. 

It is evident that if the 

triangle D B C is placed 

in the position shown 

by the dotted lines A 

E B, it will form a 

square whose side is equal to one-half the width of 

the gable. This of course applies to gables on build- 




Fig. 13. — Diagram for Finding 
Area of a Gable. 




Fig. 14. — Finding Area of Gable wlien Roof is Less than Half Pitch. 

ings of a half pitch roof. With a roof of less pitch a 
rectangle would be formed with A D for its length 
and D B for its breadth, as shown in Fig. 14. In this 
figure the triangle A B C is equal in area to the rec- 



26 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



tang^le A E B D. From the foregoing illustrations and 
principles we derive the following: 

Rule. — Multiply one-half the width of the gable by 
the perpendicular hight. 

For example, if a gable is 24 feet wide and the per- 
pendicular hight is 8 feet, then 24 -^ ^ X 8 = 96 feet, 
the area of the gable. 

FINDING THE AREA OF A TRIANGLE. 

Let ABC represent a right-angled triangle, as 
shown in Fig. 15. If we divide the triangle hori- 
zontally half way on the per- 
pendicular, then the triangle 
E B D will equal in area 
the triangle shown by the 
dotted lines A F E; hence 
the triangle ABC equals 
in area the rectangle AFCD. 
From the illustration we de- 
rive the following: 
Rule. — Multiply the base by one-half the perpen- 
dicular hight. 



Fig. 15. — Finding Area of a 
Right-Angled Triangle. 



6 E/ 


3 

^\F H 


!/ 


~\ 



A D 

Fig. 16. — Finding Area of a Scalene Triangle. 

In Fig. 16 A B C represents a scalene triangle, 
which has no perpendicular line in reality, but 
for convenience in estimating we draw one, which is 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



27 



B D, dividing the triangle into two right-angled tri- 
angles of unequal areas. By dividing the triangle 
horizontally half way on the perpendicular, as shown 
by E F, the triangle E B F equals in area the two 
triangles shown by dotted lines AGE and F H C. 
Hence the triangle ABC equals in area the rectangle 
A GH C 

Having shown how triangles may be reduced to 
squares and rectangles of equal areas, the next step 
will be to show their proper application to roof meas- 
urements. 

PLAIN GABLE ROOFS. 

The gable roof is the most common in use, and is 
formed by two sets of rafters nvhich meet at the 
ridge. Fig. 17 shows a plan of 
this kind of roof, Fig. 18 a side 
elevation, Fig. 19 an end eleva- 
tion and Fig. 20 showing the size 
of roof necessary to cover the 
side elevation represented in Fig. 
18. An error liable to occur in 
taking roof measurements from 
architectural plans consists in taking the line A B in 
the side elevation. Fig. 18, for the length of the rafter. 



Fig. 17 



-Plan of Gable 
Roof. 




Figs. 18, 19 and 20. — Side and End Elevations of a Gable Roof. 

This line is only the perpendicular rise of the roof, as 
shown in the end elevation. Fig. 19, by the dotted line 



28 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



A B. In Fig. 19, B C represents the length of rafter 
which, when shown in a perpendicular position, is 
indicated by B C in Fig. 20. This shows the length 
of roof and of rafter necessary to cover the side eleva- 
tion, represented in Fig. 18. Hence the area of the 
roof is found by multiplying the length of the roof 
by the length of the common rafter, which gives" the 
area of one side. This amount doubled will give the 
area of both sides. 

HIP ROOFS. 

The liability to error in estimating the area of hip 
roofs is still greater than in the case of gable roofs, 
for no matter from which point we view the eleva- 




Fig. 21.— Plan of Hip Roof 
with Deck. 



Fig. 22. — Side Elevation of Roof 
Shown in Pig. 21. 



tions the length of the common rafter is not shown 
in proper position to indicate the true size of the 
roof. Fig. 21 shows a plan of hip roof with deck, 
and Fig. 22 a side elevation of this kind of roof. In 
this figure some might take the lines A B and C D 
for the length of the hips, and C E for the length of 
the common rafter, but such is not the case. C D 
shows the lens:th of the common rafter as we would 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



29 



see it on the end looking at the side view, hence E D 
is the run, E C the rise and C D the length of com- 
mon rafter. I will now indicate the method of de- 
veloping the lengths of 

I H F the hips, showing the 

true size of the roof, 
and how to reduce the 
figure to a rectangle of 
equal area. Referring 
to Fig. 23, A B C D and 
E represent the same 
lines as shown in Fig. 
2.2. Now, take the length of the common rafters A B 
and C D in Fig. 23 and draw them perpendicularly, 
as shown by E F and G H. Connect F with D and H 
with A for the length of the hips, then the figure in- 
closed by the lines A H F D will be the size and shape 
of the roof necessary to cover the side elevation. The 




— Size and Shape Necessary 
to Cover Roof. 





Fig. 24.— Plan of Pyramidal Fig. 25. — Plan of Roof which 
Roof. Hips to a Ridge. 



triangle described by the lines D E F equals in area 
the triangle A I H, shown by the dotted lines. Hence 
the roof A H F D is equal in area to the rectangle 
A I F E, whose length is one-half the sum of the eaves 
and deck lengths and whose breadth is the length of 



3© THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 

the common rafter. The length multipHed by the 
breadth gives the area. From the foregoing illustra- 
tions and principles we derive the following: 

Rule. — Add the lengths at the eaves and deck to- 
gether, divide by two and multiply by the length of 
the common rafter. The area of the deck is found 
by multiplying the length by the breadth. 

Example. — What is the area of a hip roof 20 x 28 
feet at the eaves, with deck 4x8 feet, the length of 
the common rafter being 10 feet? 

Operation. — 20 -I-44-20+4-I- 28 + 8 + 28-|-8^2 
X 10 ^ 600 feet, the area of the four sides. 4X8 = 
32 feet, the area of the deck. 600 + 32 == 632, the 
total area of the roof. 

This rule will apply to hip roofs of most any kind. 
If the roof is pyramidal in form and hips to a point, 
as shown by Fig. 24, then there is nothing to add for 
deck, and we simply multiply one-half the length at 
the eaves by the length of the common rafter. The 
principles of the three forms of hip roofs are essen- 
tially the same. 



HIP AND VALLEY ROOFS. 

Let Fig. 26 represent the plan of a building having 
a roof of three gables of equal size and one smaller 




Fig. 26. — Plan of Roof with Four Gables. 

gable hipped on the rear side, as shown in the diagram. 
Fig. 27 shows this roof as it would appear in the front 
side elevation. Referring now to Fig. 28, A B and 




. — Front Elevation of Roof Shown in Fig. 26. 



B C represent the length of rafters on the front gable. 
Next set off the length of the common rafters of both 
the right and left gable perpendicularly, as shown by 



^2 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



F G and D E, connecting E with G for the ridge Hne. 
On the perpendicular line of the front gable set off 
the length of the common rafter, shown by the dotted 




Fig. 28.- 



-Diagram for Finding Area of Roof Shown in Previous 
Figure. 



line J H. Connect H with A and C for the valley 
rafters, which completes the profile of this side of the 
roof. The two figures, now represented by A D E H 
and C F G H, are termed trapezoids. To find the area 
of a trapezoid multiply half the sum of the parallel 




Fig. 29. — Appearance of Roof in Right End Elevation. 

sides by the altitude. In this case to make the matter 
plain we multiply half the length at the eaves and 
ridge by the length of the common rafter, which gives 
the area of the roof necessary to cover the elevation 
shown in Fig. 27. 

Fig. 29 shows the roof as it would appear in 
the right end elevation. We will now develop the 



THE builders' GUIDE. 



33 



shape of the roof and obtain the necessary lengths 
for finding the area of this elevation. Referring now 
to Fig. 30, A B and B C represent the length of rafters 
on the right gable. Next set off the length of rafter 
on the front gable shown by D E. Then set off the 
same length in the center of the left gable shown 
by the dotted line J H. Connect H with E for ridge 
line of front gable. Connect H with A and C for the 
valley rafters. Now take half the width of the rear 
gable, which is to be hipped on the end, and in this 




D| A I J |C TF 

Fig. 30. — Diagram for Finding Area of Roof Shown in Fig. 29. 

case is represented by C F. From C erect a perpen- 
dicular the length of the common rafter on this part, 
shown by the dotted line C G. Connect G with F 
for the hip rafter and draw the ridge line G I paral- 
lel with C F, which completes the profile of this view 
of the roof. The figure shown by A D E H is a 
trapezoid, and its area may be found as has been 
previously described for such figures. The figure 
shown by C F G I is termed a rhomboid. Its area 
may be found by multiplying C F by C G, or, in 
other words, the length at the eaves multiplied by 
the length of the common rafter gives the area. 
The areas of the two figures added complete the 



34 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



area of the roof necessary to cover the end elevation 
shown in Fig. 29. As the left end elevation is similar 
to the right in shape and size the last estimated area 
doubled will give the area of the roof necessary to 
cover the two end elevations. 

We have now to consider the rear elevation and the 
roof necessary to cover it. Fig. 31 shows the roof as it 




Fig. 31. — Roof as it Appears in Rear Elevation. 



would appear in the rear elevation. We will now de- 
velop the shape of the roof and obtain the necessary 
lengths and lines for finding the area of this elevation. 
Referring to Fig. 32, A B and B C represent the 
length of the common rafters on the rear gable. From 




D A J c F 

Fig. 32. — Diagram for Finding tlie Area of Roof Shown in Fig. 81, 

the center of the gable set off the length of the com- 
mon rafter, as shown by the dotted line J H. Con- 
nect H with A and C for the length of the hips. Set 
off the length of the common rafter on the right and 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 35 

left gable, as shown by F G and D E ; connect E and 
G for the ridge line, which completes the profile of 
the rear view of the roof. It will be seen that the 
ridge of the rear gable does not come up even with 
the ridge of the other two; hence the rear elevation 
shows a different shape than the front. For conven- 
ience in estimating we divide the roof in the center 
of the gable, shown by the dotted line H I ; then divide 
the roof perpendicularly each side of the gable, as 
shown by the dotted lines A K and C L. We now 
have the roof divided into four figures, of which D E 
K A and C L G F are rectangles, A K I H and C L 
I H are trapezoids. As the method of obtaining the 
areas of such figures has been previously described, 
further explanation is unnecessary. It has now been 
shown how to find the area of each side of the roof, 
as indicated in the plan. Fig. 26. By adding the area 
of the four sides the total area of the roof will be 
obtained. 

THE CIRCLE. 

A circle, Fig. 33, is a plane figure bounded by one 
uniformly curved line called the circumference. The 
diameter of a circle is a straight 
line drawn through the center 
and terminating at the circum- 
ference. The radius is a straight 
line drawn from the center to 
the circumference, and is there- 
fore half the diameter. 

To find the circumference of 
a circle from its diameter, mul- 
Fig. 33.— A Circle. tiply the diameter by 3.14159- 




36 



THE BUILDERS^ GUIDE. 



To find the diameter of a circle from its circumfer- 
ence divide the circumference by 3. 141 59. 

To find the area of a circle multiply half the cir- 
cumference by half the diameter, or multiply the square 
of the diameter by the decimal .7854. 

To find the side of the greatest square that can be 
inscribed in a circle of a given diameter, divide tht 
square of the given diameter by 2 and extract the 
square root of the quotient. 

TO FIND THE RADIUS OF A CIRCLE FROM A SEGMENT. 

Let A C of Fig. 34 represent the chord of an arc. 
From the center of A C square up the rise of the 




Fig. 34.- 



-Diagram for Finding Radius 
from a Segment. 



Fig. 35. — Drawing a Circle 
ttirough Three Points. 



segment to B. Connect B with A and C. From the 
center of A B and B C square down the lines as shown. 
The point of crossing at D is the center of the circle, 
and D C is the radius. 

TO DRAW A CIRCLE THROUGH THREE POINTS. 

Set off any three points, as A B C, Fig. 35. Con- 
nect A B and B C by straight lines. From the center 
of A B and B C square down to D, as shown, which 
will be the center of the circle. D B is therefore the 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 37 

radius of the circle which will strike the three points 
ABC. 

POLYGONS. 

A plane figure bounded by more than four lines is 
called a polygon. It must therefore have at least 
five sides, and the number of sides which it may have 
is not limited. In this work will be introduced only 
the forms in common use, for the purpose of showing 
simple methods of estimating their areas. 

A regular polygon has all its sides and angles 





Fig. 30. — A Regular Fig. 37. — An Irregular 

Polygon. Polygon. 

equal, as shown in Fig. 36. An irregular polygon 
has its sides and angles unequal, as shown in Fig, 37. 
A polygon of five sides, as shown in Fig. 36 or 37, 
is called a pentagon. The diagonal is a straight line 
drawn between any two angular points of a polygon. 
The diameter is a straight line drawn from any angle 
through the center to the opposite side or angle, as the 
case may be. 

To find the area of a regular pentagon we will let 
A B C D E represent the sides of a regular pentagon, 
as shown in Fig. 38. Draw the diameter A F and 
connect E with B, which divides the pentagon into 



38 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



four figures — namely, two right angled triangles of 
equal areas and two trapezoids of equal areas. E G 
multiplied by G A will give the area of the two tri- 
angles. Half the sum of D C and E B multiplied by 
G F will give 'he area of the two trapezoids. The 
two areas added will give the total area. 

To find the area of an irregular pentagon, we will 
let A B C D E represent the sides, as shown in Fig. 39. 
Next draw A D and A C, which will divide the pen- 
tagon into three triangles of unequal areas ; then draw 
the altitude of these angles, which is the perpen- 




Fig. 38. — Finding Area of 
Regular Pentagon. 



39. — Finding Area of an 
Irregular Pentagon. 



dicular distance from their vertices to the opposite 
sides, called the base and shown by the lines E F, 
A G and B H. This divides the figure into six right 
angled triangles of unequal areas. A D multiplied by 
half the altitude E F will give the area of triangles 
I and 2, or A E D; then D C multiplied by half the 
altitude A G will give the area of triangles 3 and 4, 
or D A C. Again A C multiplied by half the altitude 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



39 



H B will give the area of triangles 5 and 6, or A B C. 
The three areas added will give the total area. 

A polygon of six sides is called a hexagon, and 
is shown in Fig. 40. To find the area of this figure 




Fig. 40. — A Hexagon. 



Fig. 41. — Finding the Area 
of a Hexagon, 



draw the diagonals as shown in Fig. 41, which divide 
the hexagon into equal triangles, the size of which is 
represented by A B C. Next draw the altitude of this 
triangle, as shown by the dotted line B D. Now, A C 




Fig. 42. — Describing any Reg- 
ular Polj'gon. 



43. — An Octagon. 



multiplied by half the altitude B D will give the area of 
the triangle ABC, and this multiplied by six will give 



40 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



the total area. The area of any regular polygon may 
be found by drawing lines from all of its angles to 
the center, thus forming triangles of equal areas, 
which may be estimated by multiplying the base by 
one-half the altitude, as shown in Fig. 41. To describe 
any regular polygon draw the circumference of a cir- 
cle ; divide the circumference into as many equal spaces 
as the polygon has sides, connect these points with 
straight lines, and the polygon is completed, as shown 
in Fig. 42. 

A polygon of eight sides is called an octagon and 




Fig. 44. — Plan of an Octagon 
Tower Roof. 



Fig. 45. — An Elevation of an. 
Octagon Tower Roof. 



is shown in Fig. 43. In Fig. 44 is represented a plan 
and in Fig. 45 an elevation of an octagon tower roof. 
In Fig. 45 A B C D represent the plates and A E, 
B E, C E and D E the hip rafters. The dotted line 
F E represents the common rafter. To find the area 



THE builders' GUIDE. 41 

of this roof multiply B C by half of F E and this 
product by eight, the number of sides. It will now 
be seen that the area of any tower roof from a square 
to a polygon of any number of sides may be found 
by multiplying the length of its side by half the length 
of the common rafter. If the tower has a round 
base then the circumference of its base multiplied by 
half the length of the common rafter will give the 
area. The reader has now been shown wherein it is 
possible to make mistakes in the measurement of roofs, 
as indicated by the elevations. It has been shown 
how to develop the true shapes and sizes of irregular 
roof surfaces and how to reduce them to squares or 
rectangles of equal areas, or to figures whose areas 
are easily calculated. I might go on illustrating and 
describing roofs seemingly without end, but enough 
has been illustrated to thoroughly show the principles 
and methods of estimating roof surfaces. By a little 
study of the principles and methods, as previously set 
forth, the reader will be able to make proper applica- 
tion of them to the surface measurement of any roof. 

It will be noticed in nearly all cases that the essen- 
tial measurements for computing the area or surfaces 
of roofs are: i, the length at the eaves; 2, the length 
at the ridge or deck, as the case may be, and 3, the 
length of the common rafter. 

In works of this kind it has been customary to 
show a number of illustrations on geometry, merely 
indicating how to construct certain figures from a 
given side or a few given points, while in all cases 
the most important part which a carpenter requires — 
that of computing the area of irregular surfaces — has 



42 THE builders' GUIDE. 

been omitted. In the art of carpentry there is no 
place in which these irregular-shaped figures appear 
as frequently as they do in the construction of roofs, 
and if the carpenter has no accurate methods for 
computing their areas then he has to make a guess, 
which is the course taken by many who have never 
seen a proper application of geometry to the surface 
measurement of roofs. Roof surfaces have to be 
estimated in order to ascertain the amount of ma- 
terial required to cover them, as the sheeting, shingles, 
slate, tin, copper, iron, &c., or whatever may be used 
for the roof covering. In the illustrations and ex- 
amples given there might have been presented many 
rules for finding the length of certain sides of a 
figure, by having the lengths of one or more of the 
other sides, but they would be merely mathematical 
problems, which in most cases could be solved only 
by square root. As many carpenters are not con- 
versant with square root it has been deemed best to 
avoid its use as much as possible in this work, and 
especially in places where it is not needed. It must 
be generally conceded in taking roof measurements 
that if a carpenter can measure one distance, he can . 
measure the roof to find any distance he may desire 
to know. Therefore the illustrations given have been 
more to show how to measure roofs to obtain the 
proper dimensions for computing their areas than as 
geometrical problems and methods of construction. 
The author has considered the subject of roof meas- 
urement worthy a place by itself in estimating, and 
the subject of roof framing will be taken up, thor- 
oughly illustrated and described in another part of 
this work. 



ESTIMATING LABOR FOR CARPENTRY WORK, 

It is generally claimed that the question of labor 
is the most difficult and uncertain the carpenter is 
called upon to solve. Material can often be figured 
very closely, but just how long it will take to work 
up a lot of material and place it in position in a build- 
ing cannot be so easily determined. The cost of labor 
depends upon the time required to perform a certain 
amount of it. All men do not work alike ;' some will 
do easily one-third more than others — hence the time 
required to perform a certain amount of labor depends 
largely upon the ability of the men employed, the ad- 
vantages they take in doing work and the skill of the 
foreman in the management as it progresses day by 
day. It is an easy matter to find four men who will 
do as much in a day as five others, and to illustrate 
the surprising result of the difiference in the ability of 
men to perform labor I will give a practical example. 

Suppose two contractors, A and B, each have a job 
of work exactly the same. A takes his job for $900 
and B his for $800. Each pays wages at the rate of 
$2.50 per day, and each employs five men; but four 
of B's men are equal to five of A's and it takes 60 days 
to complete his job. Which will make the most money 
and how much? The solution of this problem is as 
follows : If A employs five men at $2.50 per day for 
60 days, the labor will cost him $750; as he took his 
job for $900, his profit is $150. Now if four of B's 
men are equal to five of A's, B will complete his job in 

43 



44 THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 

one-fifth less time than A, which will be 48 days. Now, 
if B employs five men at $2.50 per day for 48 days, the 
labor will cost him $600, and as he took his job for 
$800, his profit is $200. Thus we can see how one 
man can underbid his competitor $100 on $900 worth 
of work and still make the most money. Again, sup- 
pose it required B 52 days to complete his job; even 
then he could bid $100 lower than A and still make as 
much money. The above example shows at least one 
chance for the surprising difference in builders' esti- 
mates on the same work. It also shows how the differ- 
ence in the ability of the workmen employed and the 
management of the work can make a vast difference 
in the cost of a building. Under such circumstances 
how can a contractor make estimates upon which he 
can rely? 

In all kinds of work there must be an average, and 
this average is what is wanted as a standard in esti- 
mating. If labor cannot be estimated from what is 
known to be an average day's work, then we naturally 
conclude it must be estimated by comparison or 
guessed at. The best way for a contractor to obtain 
facts and figures that he can rely upon in estimating is 
to keep a record of all the work he does. It will not 
do to trust to memory, for in a few months or a year 
he will not know whether such and such work cost 
$42 or $54, or what it cost. If he would profit by 
experience he will keep a record of the cost of his 
work, so that he can refer to it at a moment's notice. 
To keep a record that will give the best and most re- 
liable facts and figures prepare a list of all kinds of 
work, having two sets of money columns, one for esti- 



THE builders' GUIDE. 45 

mated cost and one for actual cost. When estimating 
a job put down the estimated cost, and when the actual 
cost is found from experience in doing the work put it 
down, and keep each particular kind of work or por- 
tion of a job separate from the entire job. By so 
doing one will soon be able to see where he has esti- 
mated too high or too low, and will have facts and 
figures which will enable him to make a proper aver- 
age. Some parts of a building are easily estimated 
by the " square," which contains loo square feet. Some 
parts are easily estimated by the lineal foot, while other 
portions are best estimated by the piece. Keep a record 
of the time required by different men in doing work 
by the square, lineal foot or piece. In this way one 
will find the average day's work from actual experi- 
ence, which is the only plan that can be followed with 
success. 

When it is known what it is worth to do work by 
the square, lineal fodt or piece, any person of ordi- 
nary skill in figuring ought to be capable of making 
an estimate reasonably accurate. As I have said be- 
fore, the average day's work of all kinds is what is 
wanted as a standard in estimating. Accordingly I 
have prepared a table with the average day's work 
of each kind and the average rates to figure on. The 
table is made on a basis of ten hours for a day's 
work and as near as practical to average $3.50 per 
day. If an estimate is wanted for nine hours add 
one-tenth to the price; and if for eight hours add 
one-fifth. The prices can easily be made for any rate 
per hour or any number of hours per day. To those 
who want to test the advantage of a table of this 



46 THE builders' guide. 

kind I would say do not take it for granted that my 
rates and averages are the best in the world, or that 
they are just the thing for a guide, but prepare a 
similar list and begin entering rates and averages as 
they are found from actual experience. Then one 
will have something that will suit the locality in which 
he lives, and there can be no doubt that in a short time 
he will have something that will be much to his ad- 
vantage in estimating. Let me say, however, that the 
average day's work as found in the table is a reason- 
able average, as I have found from experience, and 
considerable dependence can be placed on estimates 
made from it. 

POINTS ON ESTIMATING LABOR. 

The rates given in the table are sufficient to insure 
any contractor who employs good, able workmen a 
fair margin on his work at 40 cents an hour and eight 
hours for a day's work; but, no matter what the day's 
length may be, if estimated by the rate quoted, it is 
good for 40 cents an hour. If the men worked nine or 
ten hours they would be supposed to average propor- 
tionately more than the average given in the table, and 
the rate per foot, square or piece, would then propor- 
tionately increase their rate per day. 

For example, take putting down base and quarter 
round, 70 feet at 5I cents would be $3.85 per day of 
eight hours, which is a margin of 65 cents over 40 
cents an hour. Suppose now that a man worked ten 
hours, in ten hours he should put down 87J feet, 
which at 5J cents per foot would be $4.81, a margin of 
81 cents a day over 40 cents an hour for the ten-hour 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 45 



TABLE OF PRICES FOR ESTIMATING LABOR BY THE 
LINEAL FOOT. 

Average Rate 

Different Kinds of Work Per Lineal Foot. Day's Worlv. Per 

No. of Feet. Foot. 
Putting down base and quarter round. ... 70 $0.05^ 

Putting on base molding 140 .02^ 

Cap and molding for wainscoting 120 .03 

Setting 2x4 partitions, 9 to 10 feet high .60 .06 

Setting 2x6 partitions, 10 to 12 feet high. 40 .09 

Putting up cornice, 5 members 24 .15 

]Making sunk gutters in cornice 40 .09 

Making standing gutters on roof 70 .05 

Putting up corner casings, 2 members .... 70 .05 

Putting on belt casings, each member .... 140 . 02 J 

Wainscoting, 3 feet high 35 .10 

Wainscoting, 4 feet high 28 .13 

Wainscoting, 5 feet high 24 .15 



day. Thus if work is figured by the rate given, it is 
the same as an estabHshed price per hour. 

If higher or lower prices are wanted or should be 
necessary in some localities contractors can easily add 
to or deduct from the rate as may be desired 
with the tables as regards the average day's work. 
Undoubtedly, many will think the rates in the table too 
high, and the averages too low, but right here 
let me say that no contractor should make an esti- 
mate based on these so-called big day's work. If he 
does he is almost sure to find he is mistaken. An 
estimate should always be made from a reasonable 
average, and then if the contractor is able to average 
as well as he estimates, and perhaps a little better, 
he feels that he is making a success of his business 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



TABLE OF PRICES FOR ESTIMATING LABOR BY THE 
SQUARE. 

Average 

Day's Work. Rate 

Different Kinds of Work Per Square. No. of Per 

Squares. Square. 

Framing floors in houses 3^ $1 . 00 

Framing floors in barns 2 J 1 . 40 

Framing outside walls of liouses 4 .90 

Framing outside walls of barns 3^ 1.10 

Framing ceilings 5 . "^O 

Framing plain roofs. . 4 .90 

Framing hip and valley roofs 2J 1 .40 

Sheathing sides with common sheathing 6 .60 

Sheathing sides with 8-inch shiplap 5 .75 

Sheathing sides with 6-inch flooring 4 .90 

Sheathing plain roofs, common sheathing .... 6 .60 
Sheathing hip and valley roofs, common 

sheathing 5 .75 

Sheathing plain roofs, 8-inch shiplap 5 .75 

Sheathing hip and valley roofs, 8-inch shiplap .4 .90 

Shingling, plain roofs 2 1 .90 

Shingling, hip and valley roofs 1^ 2 . 88 

Shingling on side walls and gables 1^ 2.40 

Siding, 6-inch lap siding 3 1 . 20 

If papered before siding 2^ 1 . 40 

Siding with 4-inch lap siding 2 1 . 80 

If papered before siding 1| 2.00 

For mitered corners add 10c. per lineal foot 

of corner for each mitered corner 

Siding with 12-inch barn boards 4 .90 

Siding with 12-inch boards and battened 3 1.20 

Siding with 6-inch cove siding 3 1 .20 

Laying floor with 6-inch pine floor 4 .90 

Laying floor with 4-inch pine floor 3 1 . 20 

Laying floor with 3-inch pine floor 2 1 .80 

Laying floor with 2 J face hardwood If 2 . 00 

Smoothing, scraping hardwood floors 2 1.80 

Ceiling with 4-inch ceiling 2^ 1 .40 

and is satisfied. On the other hand, if the estimate 
is made from too large an average the big day's 
work which was counted on may not be accomplished 

and many a time what seemed like time enough would 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 49 
TABLE OF PRICES FOR ESTIMATING LABOR BY THE PIECE. 

Average 

Day's Work. Rate 

Different Kinds of Work Per Piece. No. of Per 

Pieces. Piece. 

Making plain window frames 2^ $1 .40 

Making plain door frames 3 1 . 20 

Making transom frames 2 1 . 80 

Setting frames in position in building 10 .35 

Hanging blinds before frames are set 10 .35 

Hanging blinds after frames are set 7 .50 

Hanging inside blinds 4 .90 

Fitting and hanging sash 7 .50 

Hanging medium size transoms 7 .50 

Casing windows, plain 8 .45 

Casing windows, cap trim 6 .60 

Casing doors, one side, plain 12 .30 

Casing doors, two sides, plain 6 .60 

Casing doors, one side, cap trim 8 .45 

Casing doors, two sides, cap trim 4 .90 

Casing transom frames, one side 6 .60 

Casing transom frames, two sides 3 1.20 

Cutting in window stops 20 .18 

Cutting in door stops 16 .24 

Band molding frames, one side 14 .26 

Band molding frames, two sides 7 .52 

Putting down thresholds 12 .30 

Fitting common doors 14 .25 

Hanging doors after same are fitted 14 .25 

Putting on rim knob locks 18 .20 

Putting on mortise knob locks 10 .35 

Fitting and hanging and putting lock on front 

doors 2 1.80 

Cased openings, plain, finished both sides com- 
plete 2 1.80 

Cased openings, with columns and pedestals, 
cap trim, all made at mill ready to be set 
up, labor is worth $3.60 to $5.00 each for 
finishing in house 

prove insufficient. Then there would be dissatisfac- 
tion and disappointment. I will now return to the 
tables and show how to make some short cuts by com- 
binations. In the tables every item is given separately 
for convenience in estimating any particular portion 
of a job, but to facilitate the work of estimating an 



50 THE BUILDERS GUIDE 

entire job many of the different items may be com- 
bined and regarded as one. For example, it is worth: 

For framing and placing joists in position, per 

square SO. 90 to $1.00 

Laying floor, per square 1 . 20 to 2 . 00 

Total $2 . 10 to $3 . 00 

Thus the framing and laying of floors may be esti- 
mated at once if desired. The bridging of joists 
should be estimated at 3 to 5 cents per joist for each 
row of bridging. 

DOUBLE FLOORS. 

Where the floors are to be double the first or rough 
floor should always be laid diagonally, unless the 
rough floor is to be stripped before the finished floor 
is to be laid. It is worth very nearly twice as much 
to lay a floor diagonally as it is to lay it straight, and 
it is always worth more to lay the finish floor over 
another floor than it is to lay flooring directly on the 
floor joists. To lay the finish floor is worth about one- 
third more than the first rough floor. 

Thus, if it is worth 75 cents a square to put down 
a rough floor of sheathing, laying the boards straight, 
it would be worth $1.50 a square to lay the boards 
diagonally, and would be worth $2.70 to $3.50 per 
square for both the rough and finish floor all com- 
plete, according to the kind of flooring used. If floors 
are to be stripped and deadened an allowance must 
be made for this of 50 cents per square for the labor 
of stripping and putting in the deadening felt, and 
some kinds of deadening may be worth much more 
to put in; for example, if mineral wool is used, it is 
worth three times as much as it is just to use the dead- 
ening felt that comes put up in rolls and which is 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 51 

easily applied. A very good deadening felt can be 
had at present for $1.50 per square, and counting 50 
cents for putting it in, would make the total cost of 
the deadening $2 per square, without counting the 
cost of the flooring. 

Framing floors for brick buildings may be estimated 
at the same rate as for frame ; for, while there is 
usually less framing, more time is required to place 
the joists in position and to level up, thus making the 
labor about equal ; but where joists have to be framed 
with a crown edge one-third should be added to cover 
the cost of the extra amount of labor required. As a 
building progresses in hight more time is required to 
place joists in position, hence 10 per cent, should be 
added to each succeeding story after the first. 

The outside walls of a house may be estimated as 
follows : 

To frame and raise, per square $0.80 to $0.90 

Sheathing same, per square 60 to .90 

Siding same, per square 1 . 20 to 2 . 00 

Total $2. 60 to $3.80 

Thus the outside walls of a house may be estimated 
at $2.60 to $3.80 per square. 

Framing should include the framing and raising, 
and sheathing and siding should be estimated suffi- 
ciently high to include the cost of building scaffold. 
It is worth one-half more to sheath a building inside 
than outside, and twice as much to sheet it diagonally. 
The siding of a house is subject to large variations, as 
a man can often side three or four times faster on 
some buildings than he can on others. The amount 



52 THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 

an average workman will put on in a day depends upon 
the number, size and shape of the openings around 
which he has to side, the hight of the building and the 
amount of scaffolding he has to do. Difficult places 
to side can be readily seen on a building or even from 
a plan, and the siding should be estimated sufficiently 
high to cover the cost. I have known men to put on 
siding for 60 cents per square, but not one man in ten 
can make anything like respectable wages at this price, 
even on the plainest kind of work and under the most 
favorable circumstances. Some men may be able to 
put on four squares a day and perhaps a little more 
than that, but the large majority will fall short of 
four, and some will not put on more than two squares 
a day. The average is therefore not more than three 
squares per day, which would amount to $1.80 per 
day, with chances of not doing so well. In estimat- 
ing siding or sheeting by the square no deduction is 
made for openings. 

Roofs may be estimated as follows : 

For framing, per square $0 . 90 to $1 . 40 

For sheathing, per square 60 to .75 

For shingling, per square 1 . 90 to 2 . 88 

Total $3. 40 to S5. 03 

Thus to frame, sheath and shingle a roof is worth 
from $3.40 to S5.03 per square, according to the kind of 
roof and kind of material used. Each hip or valley in 
a roof is worth from 75 cents to $1.50 for sheeting 
and shingling. Hips and valleys cannot be shingled 
or sheeted with as much speed as plain roofs, and are 
seldom estimated high enough. The shingling of belt 
courses and gables with dimension shingles is worth 
from $2 to $3.50 per square, according to the windows 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



53 



and difficult places with which the workman has to 
contend. 

CORNICES. 

A cornice is composed of several members, the most 
common kind containing five, which are known re- 
spectively as planceer, fascia, frieze, crown and bed 
moldings. It may be estimated at 15 cents per lineal 
foot. If a cornice has more than five members add 
2 to 3 cents per lineal foot for each member. If there 
are less than five members a similar deduction may be 
made. If a cornice has brackets it will be necessary to 
add a sufficient amount to cover the cost of putting 
them up. 

GUTTERS. 

These are variously formed on roofs and in cornices 
and are worth from 4 to 10 cents per lineal foot. A 
standing gutter on a roof is worth from 4 to 6 cents 




Fig. 46. — Cornice with Standing Gutter. 



54 THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 

per foot. A flush gutter or one sunk in a roof or 
cornice is worth from 6 to lo cents per foot. Fig. 46 
shows a cornice with a standing gutter on the roof. 
The gutter is usually placed on the second or third 
course of shingles, and consists of one piece standing 
square with the roof, as shown by the dotted lines, 
and is usually supported by small brackets on the 
under side with end pieces as shown. G is the gutter, 
C the crown molding. Fa the fascia, P the planceer, 
B the bed molding, F the frieze and S the sheeting. 
Fig. 47 shows a gutter formed in the cornice with four 
pieces — namely, a bottom, two sides and a fillet, all 
as shown by the dotted lines. G is the gutter, F L the 
fillet, C the crown mold, Fa the fascia, P the planceer, 
B the bed molding, F the frieze and S the sheeting. 
To make this kind of a gutter is worth 10 cents per 
lineal foot. 



Sometimes porches may be estimated by the lineal 
foot, at from $2 to $4 per foot. This, however, is not 
the best method, its principal advantage being its sim- 
plicity and ease. The most common kind of porches, 
with which almost every one becomes familiar, may 
be estimated as above with generally satisfactory re- 
sults. The best and most accurate way, however, is 
to estimate the framework, flooring, ceiling and roof- 
ing by the square ; the cornice, gutters and lattice work 
by the foot, and the steps, columns, brackets and orna- 
mental work by the piece. After summing up the 
various parts the result may be taken as the most 
reliable estimate. 



THE builders' GUIDE. 



55 




Fig. 47. — Gutter Formed in the Cornice. 



ESTIMATING WINDOW FRAMES. 

The various parts of the work necessary to com- 
plete a window frame in a building may be put down 
as follows : 

Making frame $1 . 40 

Hanging blinds 50 

Setting frame in building 35 

Fitting and hanging sash 50 

Casing and finishing window 80 

Total $3.55 

The above does not include any material. Thus we 
see that the ordinary plain window frames complete in 



56 THE builder's GUIDE. 

a building may be estimated at $3.55 each for labor. It 
should be remembered that a fine hardwood finish is 
often worth twice or three times as much as a com- 
mon soft wood finish, and that large transom frames, 
twin windows, &c., finished in hardwood may be 
worth as high as $20. 

DOOR FRAMES. 

The different parts of work required to complete 
a door frame may be estimated as follows : 

Making door frame $1 . 20 

Setting frame in building 35 

Casing and finishing 1. 00 

Hanging door and putting on lock 1 . 95 

Total $4 . 50 

Thus it is worth $4.50 per frame to make and finish 
common door frames complete in a building. To fit, 
hang and put a lock on a common door, using one 
pair of loose pin butts and a common mortise lock, is 
worth 85 cents. The average day's work is about five 
doors per eight-hour day. If the doors are large and 
require three butts per door it is worth $1 per door. 
Front doors having complicated locks with night keys, 
etc., may be worth to fit', hang and lock from $1.50 to 
$2.50 per door. 

SLIDING DOORS. 

The labor for putting up sliding doors may be esti- 
mated as follows : 

Lining partitions and putting up track $6 . 00 

Setting jambs 1.00 

Casing, stops, &c 1 . 50 

Hanging doors and putting on hardware 3.50 

Total .$12.00 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 57 

Thus $12 per set may be figured for the labor in put- 
ting in an average set of double sliding doors, and if 
the doors are very large and it is a hardwood finish 
job it may be worth up to $25. A single sliding door 
is worth very nearly as much as double doors. The 
difference in the labor of putting them up in most cases 
would not exceed over $3 to $5 on the average job. 

FOLDING DOORS. 

The cost of labor for putting in folding doors com- 
plete is from $4.00 to $5.50 per set. To fit, hang and 
put on lock and flush bolt is worth from $2.25 to $3.50 
per set. 

WAINSCOTING. 

A good way to estimate the labor for plain wainscot- 
ing is by the lineal foot. 

Per foot. 

For wainscoting 3 feet high 8 cents 

For wainscoting 4 feet high 10 cents 

For wainscoting 5 feet liigh 12 cents 

For tlie cap charge 1 to 3 cents per lineal foot for each 
member. 

SINKS. 

To finish a kitchen sink in the plainest style is worth 
$2, and some styles finished in hardwood are worth as 
much as $10. 

BATHROOMS. 

A bathroom having in connection a wash bowl and 
a water closet, finished in the plainest style, will take 
a good workman two days, and is worth $7. An in- 
experienced hand in this kind of work will require 
about three days to complete the job. Some styles 
of hardwood finish will require from four to six days' 
work and are worth from $14 to $21. 



5?^ THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 

PANTRIES. 

The shelving and finishing of a pantry in the plain- 
est style is worth $5 to $8. Pantries with flour chests, 
spice drawers and numerous other things, shelves in- 
closed with doors, all elegantly fitted up, may be worth 
$25 to $40 and upward. 

LABOR FOR STAIRS. 

The cheapest kind of cellar stairs are worth from 
$3 to $8 and the plainest kind of box stairs from $8 to 
$12 per flight. Plain open stairs with hand rail, newel 
post and balusters are worth from $25 to $40. Stairs 
and staircases finished in hardwood may vary from 
$50 to $150 and upward. It is frequently worth from 
$15 to $25 and upward to set the newels, rails and 
balusters in some elaborate hardwood stairs. 

RECAPITULATION. 

In looking over the items which we have variously 
combined and bringing them to a minimum, it will 
be seen on what the carpenter has to figure and the 
easiest way of estimating it. These prices include 
labor only. 
Framing and laying single floor, per 

square $2 . 20 to $3 . 20 

Framing and laying double floor, per 

square 2 . 95 to 3.95 

If floors are to be deadened, per square. . 3.45 to 4.40 
Framing, sheathing and siding, per 

square 2 . 70 to 3.50 

Framing, sheathing and shingling roofs, 

per square 3 . 40 to 5 . 03 

Hips and valleys, each 75 to 1 . 25 

Shingling belt courses and gables, per 

square 2.00 to 2.40 



THE builders' GUIDE. 



59 



Cornice, per lineal foot . 15 to .20 

Corner casings, per lineal foot .05 

Gutters, per lineal foot . 08 to .10 

Porches, per lineal foot 2 . 00 to 4 . 00 

Setting partitions, 2x4, per lineal foot .... .06 

Setting partitions, 2x6, per lineal foot .09 

Window frames, complete in building 3 . 55 

Door frames, complete in building 4 . 50 

Sliding doors, per set 12 . 00 to 25 . 00 

Folding doors in building 6 . 00 to 7 . 50 

Base in houses, per lineal foot . 05^^ 

Wainscoting, 3, 4 and 5 feet high, per 

lineal foot . 10 to .15 

Wainscoting cap, per lineal foot, each 

member .02 to .03 

Sinks, each 2 . 00 to 5 . 00 

Bathrooms, finished complete 7 . 00 to 20. 00 

Pantries, finished complete 5 . 00 to 40. 00 

Cellar stairs, very common 3 . 00 to 5 . 00 

Plain stairs 20 . 00 to 35 . 00 

Front stairs 35 . 00 to 150. 00 

Cased openings, plain 1 . 80 to 2 . 00 

Cased openings, with columns and pedestals 3 . 60 to 5 . 00 



SHORT CUT IN ESTIflATINQ. 

As many of the principal parts of construction 
in common buildings are essentially the same, a 
short cut may be made in figuring the bulk of the 
rough work, which includes the framing, raising, 
sheeting, siding, roofing, laying of floors, and setting 
partitions. Take the number of cubic feet in the 
building from top of foundation to top of ridge of 
roof and multiply by the rate per cubic foot, which 
for carpenter labor in ordinary frame buildings is 
usually from two to three cents per cubic foot. After 
estimating the rough work in this manner add all the 
parts that are considered of a changeable character, 
such as the cornice, gable trimmings, porches, bay 
windows, inside finish, and all parts not included in the 
bulk of the estimates. Of course one can see that a 
change in price will change the amount of the estimate, 
and that it is as necessary to use discriminating judg- 
ment in fixing rates for this method as in any other. 

To successfully estimate the labor in a building 
every one must fix his own rates from personal ex- 
perience in doing the class of work which he is called 
on to perform. Tables, prices and methods are good 
in their way, and many times will give valuable aid 
in estimating, but actual experience is far better. 

The foregoing items include those which come un- 
der the head of carpentry. Of course the contractor 
will have many other items on which to figure if he 
desires to estimate or contract for the entire job. 
60 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



6i 



The following list, arranged in regular order, will 
be found to include the principal divisions of estimat- 
ing an entire job, and also shows a good form for an 
estimate : 

FORM FOR AN ESTIMATE. 



Excavating 

Foundation walls 

Brick walls and piers. 

Chimneys 

Lumber 

Carpentry work 

Hardware 

Tin work 

Galvanized iron work. 

Plastering 

Plumbing 

Gas fitting 

Steam fitting 

Painting 

Incidental expenses . . 



f 



PRINCIPAL DIVISIONS IN ESTIMATING. 

Under each division there will always appear many 
items on which to figure, but as contractors are sup- 
posed to be supplied with specifications it is useless 
to enumerate all the items as they may appear under 
each head. The two principal divisions of lumber and 
carpentry have been given in full in every detail of 
the work. Under the other divisions it will only be 
necessary to mention a few of the essential points 
to enable any one to estimate them easily and accu- 
rately. 

EXCAVATIONS. 

Excavating for foundation walls, cellars, cisterns, 
etc., is estimated by the cubic yard, which contains 
2y cubic feet. The rate per yard is variable in dif- 



62 THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 

ferent localities and according to the location of the 
grounds and the hardness of the earth to be excavated. 

FOUNDATIONS AND CHIMNEYS. 

Foundations are generally laid of brick or stone. 
Brick are laid by the thousand and stone by the 
perch. The rates and customs of measuring are 
variable in different localities. The following, how- 
ever, is the usual custom of measuring brick and stone 
work. For a foundation the outside measurement of 
the wall is the one taken. To find the number of 
perches of stone in walls, multiply the length in feet 
by the hight in feet, and that by the thickness in feet, 
and divide the product by 22. No allowance is made 
for openings, unless they are numerous or of consider- 
able size. 

EXAMPLE AND SOLUTION. 

Take the following example : How many perches 
of stone in a wall 48 feet long, 8 feet high and i foot 
6 inches thick? The solution to this is: 48 X 8 X 
15^ -^ 22 ^ 26.18 perches. A perch of stone measures 
usually 24.75 cubic feet, but when built in a wall 2.75 
cubic feet are allowed for mortar and filling. To find 
the perches of masonry divide the cubic feet by 24.75 
instead of 22. In estimating the masonry no allow- 
ance is made for openings. A thousand brick are 
about equal to two perches of stone when laid in a 
wall. Brick are counted as follows : 

For a 4-inch wall 7^ bricks to the foot. 

For an 8-inch wall 15 bricks to the foot. 

For a 12-inch wall 22^ bricks to the foot. 

For a 16-inch wall 30 bricks to the foot. 

In estimating for the number of brick the open- 



THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. O3 

ings may be deducted if they are large or numerous. 
In the measurement of masonry, however, no deduc- 
tion is made for openings. Seven hundred and fifty 
brick laid in a wall are equal to looo brick, wall count. 
The customary price allowed for the labor of laying 
brick is $2 to $4 per 1000, wall count. 

A chimney of i>^ by 2 bricks makes a flue 4x8 
inches inside and requires 25 bricks per foot. A chim- 
ney of 2 by 2 brick makes a flue 8x8 inches inside 
and requires 30 bricks per foot, while a chimney of 
2 by 2^ brick makes a flue 8 x 12 inside and requires 
35 bricks per foot. Chimneys of any size may be esti- 
mated by counting the number of brick required for 
one course and allowing five courses to the foot. A 
chimney breast for a fire place is usually of 2 x 7 brick 
and requires 80 to 90 bricks per foot. 

LATHING AND PLASTERING. 

Lathing is estimated by the square yard and the 
usual rate is 3 cents per yard. Fifteen lath are counted 
to the yard, and 6^ pounds of threepenny nails per 
1000 lath. Plastering is also estimated by the square 
yard. The lathing and plastering are usually esti- 
mated together at the following rates, including ma- 
terial and labor: 

For two-coat work, 18 to 25 cents per yard, and for 
three-coat work, 25 to 30 cents. In the measurement 
of plastering no deduction is made for openings. 

PAINTING. 

When a carpenter has to figure upon painting it is 
better for him to get some reliable mechanic who is 
m the business to give figures on the work. Painters 



6a the builders' guide. 

figure their work by the square yard. I have in- 
quired of practical painters concerning their methods 
of calculation and have failed to find any uniform 
scale or rule by which to measure surfaces. Nearly 
all master painters have a basis of calculation, but the 
accuracy of their estimates depends so much upon 
personal judgment as to the nature and extent of 
variations that their methods would be useless to 
persons of less accurate judgment. The methods also 
vary according to the nature of the work and the 
training of the painter. No two would measure in 
the same way, perhaps, yet they might reach nearly 
the same results. Although it is true that very 
much depends upon the painter's judgment, I will 
try to give a few hints which will be found in some 
cases entirely trustworthy and in all helpful. One 
way of measuring is to obtain the number of square 
feet in the sides and ends of a building as if they 
are flat surfaces, give a rough guess as to the dimen- 
sions of trimming, etc., and let it go at that. This 
plan may work well for a good guesser, but for gen- 
eral use it is not very satisfactory. Another way 
in connection with wooden buildings is to measure 
the length and exposed surface of one strip of siding, 
then count the siding and multiply the dimensions of 
one by the whole number on the side or end of the 
building; the product will be the surface measure. 
This is a better way, but its accuracy depends upon 
a pretty thorough acquaintance with compound num- 
bers, as dimensions must be reduced to inches, then 
back to feet or yards, according to the basis of calcula- 
tion. Trimmings, etc., are measured separately. 



THE builders' GUIDE. 6$ 

Common siding are put on with one board over- 
lapping another, and the lapping edge of the board is 
raised from the perpendicular, so that it presents a di- 
agonal instead of a flat surface ; and there is also the 
exposed edge of the board, about ^ inch, which should 
be included in the estimate. Suppose, now, that the 
exposed portion of a board of siding is 4 inches — the 
usual width — and the edge ^ inch. It will give the 
side of a building just 12^/^ per cent, more surface 
than it would possess if it were perfectly flat. Hence 
one-eighth added to the dimensions, obtained by multi- 
plying hight and length together, will give the actual 
surface measure of common siding. 

In drop siding, which is frequently used, there is 
an exposed edge of about Yz inch, and about Y\ inch 
more surface on the molded edge than there would 
be if it were flat, thus making a total gain over flat 
surface of ^4 ii^ch on each piece of siding, or 18^ 
per cent., which is very nearly equal to one-fifth. 
Hence one-fifth should be added to the dimensions 
in square feet of a building to obtain the surface 
measurement for drop siding. 

In measuring the gable ends of ordinary buildings 
the dimensions should, be one-half less than actual 
square measure. For example, if a building is 20 
feet wide, and is 10 feet from the level of the frame 
plates to the point of the roof, multiply half the width, 
10 feet, by the hight, 10 feet, and we have 100 feet 
surface .of the gable end, to which should be added 
the percentages for the edges of the siding boards, etc. 
No deduction is usually made for openings. Cornice 
and trimmings should be measured .separately. If 



66 THE builders' guide. 

there are panels, beads and other projecting and reced- 
ing features, brackets, etc., carefully measure one of 
each, count the number on the building and multiply 
by that number; the product will be the total surface. 
Open brackets on cornices and scroll and lattice work 
on verandas should be measured solid, as the edges 
fully make up for open spaces. 

The utter lack of uniformity in house trimmings 
compels more or less reliance upon the judgment of 
the painter in measuring them. I can suggest no 
rule for measuring which can be used with satisfac- 
tory results in all cases. What would be admirably 
suited to one would be wholly unadapted to another, 
simply because the architectural features are unlike. 
Here there is no alternative but to exercise judgment 
in considering these important features. 

In calculating the quantity of paint required upon 
the basis of surface measurement, from 12 to 40 per 
cent, should be allowed for trimmings, etc., accord- 
ing to their size and shape. For plain work 12 to 
20 per cent, will be found a fair average. This de- 
pends, however, upon the number of doors and 
windows, style of frames, etc. On Queen Anne struc- 
tures, which are painted with two or three body 
colors and are burdened with numerous and elabo- 
rate trimmings, calculations must be made of the 
portions of the buildings to which the different body 
colors are to be applied, either by divisions of total 
measurement or by separate measurements, and the 
trimmings considered separately. As outside paint- 
ing on buildings usually consists of two coats over a 
previously painted surface, or if on a surface never 



THE builders' GUIDE. 67 

before painted preceded by a primary coat, it is cus- 
tomary to estimate the quantity of paint required for 
two coats. Surfaces are so variable in condition that 
no rule can be found which will be found applicable to 
all cases. The quantity of paint required for two-coat 
work varies from 3^ to 5 gallons per 100 square 
yards, and I would by all means advise carpenters to 
obtain figures from experienced painters in this par- 
ticular line of business. 

HARDWARE. 

Estimating hardware is as much of a necessity with 
the carpenter as estimating lumber, but it is not at- 
tended with as many variations and difficulties. The 
number of fixtures for door and window trimmings, 
etc., may be readily counted from the plans, and it is 
only through the omission of some items that any 
serious mistake is likely to happen. A careful study 
of the plans and a well prepared list of hardware items 
from which to figure is a guard against mistakes from 
omissions and a guide to correct estimating. 

LIST OF ITEMS FOR ESTIMATING HARDWARE. 

Nails, various sizes (see table). 

Brads. Hooks and eyes. 

Blind hinges. Drawer pulls. 

Window bolts. Mortise bolts. 

Axle pulleys. Flush bolts. 

Sash locks. Registers. 

Sash cord. Door stops. 

Window weights. Tin window caps. 

Mortise locks. Tin shingles. 

Rim locks. Valley tin. 

Butts, various sizes. Hip shingles. 

Parlor door hangers. Tin roofing. 



6S THE builders' GUIDE. 

Wrought butts. Conductors. 

Strap hinges. Screws. 

Transom lifters. Sandpaper. 

Cupboard catches. Wardrobe hooks. 

On small jobs old contractors who have learned to 
judge from experience usually arrive at the quantities 
of nails by guessing. The following table, however, 
may be found available to many in estimating nails 
for various purposes. As wire nails are coming into 
general use, and are already extensively employed, the 
basis of estimating has been made on the number of 
wire nails to the pound. If cut nails are used add 
one-third to the amount : 

TABLE FOR ESTIMATING NAILS. 

1000 shingles require 3I/2 pounds 4d nails. 
1000 lath require 6i^ pounds 3d nails. 
1000 feet of beveled siding requires 18 pounds Gd nails. 
1000 feet of sheeting requires 20 pounds Sd nails. 
1000 feet of sheeting requires 25 pounds lOd nails. 
1000 feet of flooring requires 30 pounds 8d nails. 
1000 feet of flooring requires 35 pounds lOd nails. 
1000 feet of studding requires 14 pounds lOd nails. 
1000 feet of studding requires 10 pounds 20d nails. 
1000 feet of furring 1x2 requires 10 pounds lOd nails. 
1000 feet of % finish requires 30 pounds of 8d nails. 
1000 feet of 1% finish requires 40 pounds lOd finish nails. 

The following table shows the name, length and 
number of nails to the pound of different sizes : 

NUMBER OF NAILS TO THE POUND. 

No. to a 
Name. Length. pound. 

3d fine .1 inch 1150 

3d common 1^4 inch 720 

4d common 1% inch 432 



THE builders' GUIDE. 69 

No. to a 
Name. Length. pound. 

5d common II/2 to 1% inch 352 

6d finish 2 inch 350 

6d common 2 inch 252 

7d common 2^2 inch 192 

8d finish 2% inch 190 

8d common 2i/4 inch 132 

9d common 2% inch 110 

lOd finish 3 inch 137 

lOd common 3 inch 87 

12d common 3^4 inch GG 

20d common 3% inch 35 

30d common 4 inch 27 

40d common 4^ inch 21 

50d common 5% inch 15 

60d common 6 inch 12 

70d common 7 inch 9 

FORM OF CONTRACT. 

Articles of Agreement^ made on this 

day of 

, A. D. 18 , by and between 

, party of the first part 

and , party of the 

second part: Witnesseth, That for and in considera- 
tion of the money hereinafter stipulated to be paid 
to the party of the first part by the party of the second 
part, the party of the first part has, and by these condi- 
tions does hereby agree to furnish all labor and ma- 
terial of every kind and to build and complete on or 

by the 

on the premises of the party of the 

second part, situated in 

a residence as shown upon the drawings and set forth 



70 THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 

in the specifications. Said drawings and specifications 
being verified by the signatures of the parties are taken 
as a part of this contract. And the party of the first 
part agrees that all material furnished, or workman- 
ship employed, shall be of the best character and qual- 
ity, as mentioned in the said specifications. The party 
of the first part further agrees that he will complete, 
in accordance with the plans and specifications, to the 
full and entire satisfaction of the party of the second 
part, all the work that is to be done by the 

In consideration of which the party of the second 
part agrees to pay to the party of the first part the 

sum of $ as follows : 

When the foundations are completed $ 

When the entire building is under roof. . $ 

When the entire building is plastered. ... $. 

When the entire building is completed. . . $ 

In Witness Whereof, the parties hereto have affixed 
their signatures: 

[L.S.] 

[LS.] 

Witness: 



PRACTICAL riETHODS OF CONSTRUCTION. 

As most carpenters are familiar with the usual 
methods of construction in the line of carpentry, I 
will only mention a few points on this subject, which 
seem to me to be more or less neglected. 

MAKING CORNERS. 

It is customary, nowadays, to make the outside 
corners of many buildings by simply doubling and 
spiking two studding together, as shown by section 
in Fig. 48. By this method there is 
nothing to receive the lath from one 
side, and as soon as the lathers begin 
work the carpenter is called upon 
either to put in another studding or the 
lather puts in anything he can find to 
which to nail the lath. In many in- 
stances it is nothing more than a double thickness of 
lath nailed up and down the corner. This does not 
make a solid corner, and as 
a consequence the plastering 
soon cracks, even before the 
carpenter is through finish- 
ing. It is almost impossible 
to put down the base in a 
house constructed with such 

corners without cracking of Construction than shown 
. , . in Previous Figure. 

them, simply because they 

are not solid. Fig. 49 shows a section of a corner 
which is a much better method of construction, and 

71 



Fig. 48. — An 
Outside Cor- 
ner. 



c 




A 


D 


B 



Fi: 



49. — Section of a Corner, 
Indicating a Better Method 



72 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



one which makes a soHd corner. The corner is made 
of three studding, A, B, C, spiked together as shown. 
D is an open space between A and B, which may be 
filled in with blocks. Corners constructed in this way 
make solid nailing for the lath and base from both 
sides. Figs. 50 and 51 show two forms for making 
solid corners for partition angles by using three stud- 





G 




A 


B 





c- 




A 




B 



Fig. 50. — Method of Making 
Solid Corners for Parti- 
tion Angle. 



Fig. 51. — Another Metho<^ 
of Making Solid Cor- 
ners. 



ding. If it is desired to save studding a board can he 
nailed to the back of studding C, which will ofter^ 
answer the purpose. It is a very common thing 4"oi 
carpenters in set- 
ting partitions to 
place the studding 
j o i n ing another 
partition half an 
inch away from it, 
so that the lather 
may run the lath 
through back of 

the partition studding, as shown in Fig. 52. This does 
not make a solid corner and is a very poor method 
of construction. 



Fig. 52.- 



-Showing Improper Manner of 
Running the Lath. 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



73 



SPACING STUDDING. 

/ As the second-floor joists in buildings usually rest 
on a ribbon board framed into the studding, it is neces- 
sary that the studding on both sides of the building 
on which the joists have their bearing should be regu- 
larly spaced. Many are in the habit of laying off the 
openings and spacing the studding to conform thereto. 



1 \ L 
II 


II 
i \ \ 


\ 




\ \ \ 








_ II . . _ 


1 



Fig. 53. — Showing Proper Method of Spacing Studding. 



This method causes great irregularity of spacing, mak- 
ing some wide and some narrow spaces, which either 
bring the joists overhead out of position or leave 
them standing alone on the ribbon without any means 
of being properly fastened. 

Studding should be spaced regardless of the open- 
ings, after which the openings may be laid out and 
the necessary studding may be cut and headers put 



74 



THE BUILDERS^ GUIDE. 



in, as shown in Fig. 53. This method leaves the stud- 
ding all regularly spaced, and the joists will all nail 
to the side of a studding and come in the proper 
order. Now, if the studding are set to conform to 
the openings, as shown in Fig. 54, it breaks up the 
regular order of spacing, leaving some spaces wide 
and some narrow. It will also be noticed that we 



L 


n 


w 


1 


A 


\ 

1 


1 


J 


n 


1 


J 


1 



Fig. 54. — Showing Studding Set to Conform to Openings. 



have two more studding spaced on the sill and plate 
than in Fig. 53. It is, therefore, evident that if the 
joists are regularly spaced many of them will stand 
alone on the ribbon board, with no place to properly 
fasten them, as shown. If they are placed over to 
the side of the studding, as they frequently are, then 
they are thrown off their centers and the spacing is 



wrong. 



/ 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



75 



CORNER BLOCKS. 

Every workman has experienced more or less diffi- 
culty in nailing up corner blocks in casing doors and 
windows. The trouble all comes from the want of a 
solid background on which to nail the blocks. Very 
often the plastering is not finished level and true 
with the jambs. All trouble with corner blocks may 
be avoided by taking a common board of the proper 
thickness, i^ inches narrower than the inside head 
casing, i^ inches shorter than the width of win- 
dow and side casings, and nailing it 
tight down on the head jamb, as 
shown in Fig. 55. By this method 
the corner blocks will nail up 
true and solid without cracking 
the plastering. Care should be 
taken that the board is not too 
wide nor too long, as the blocks 
and head casing should com- 
pletely cover it from view. 

MITERING AND COPING BASE. 

Many mechanics have proba- 
bly experienced more or less dif- 
ficulty in mitering and coping 
base, particularly of the hard- 
wood finish and molded-edge pat- 
terns. There are two distinct kinds of joints to make 
in putting down base. The angles which form the 
four sides of a room are called internal angles, and 
the joints should always be coped. The projecting 
corners of a chimney, or any corners projecting into 



"- 




^ 


|; BOARD ". ;j| 


_i ^ , 


JAMB-^ 












u 



Fig. 55. — Method of 
Putting up Corner 
Bloclis. 



76 THE builders' guide. 

a room, are termed external angles, and the joints 
should always be mitered. To cope a joint in putting 
down base, cut and fit in square the first piece. Cut 
the piece which is to be coped to the other about 
i^ inches longer than the actual length needed; place 
it as nearly as possible in position, and with the 
dividers set to about the thickness of the base, scribe 
down by the side of the piece already fitted and 
nailed in place ; then scribe all the parts which are 
easy. Beads and molded surfaces which are difficult 
to scribe, prick with the dividers near the center of 
each member; cut the square part of base as usual, 
but cut the molded part on an angle which will just 
touch all the points made by the dividers. This will 
give the true line for coping. After cutting the base 
to the coping line, first see that the joint will fit, as 
sometimes a little trimming is necessary; then obtain 
the proper length, cut off and place the board in posi- 
tion, putting in last when possible to do so the end 
which is coped. By this method a joint can be made 
very tight without the annoyance of the other end 
of the board scraping into the plastering. Many 
carpenters use a templet for obtaining the cut which 
gives the coping line. It, however, is of little use, as 
it is always made with the supposition that all angles 
are square and true, which is far from being the case. 
Scribing and cutting as above described is far bet- 
ter, as it will make a joint to fit any angle, and with 
a little practice a perfect fit will be obtained at the 
first cut. 

To miter base around external angles, mark the 
proper miter on the square edge of the base and 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 77 

square across on the back side and the square part 
of the face side. Cut from the top edge of base, start- 
ing on back Hne and cutting on an angle which 
will just cut the line on the square part of the face 
side. A little practice will convince any one that a 
templet for cutting base is not really worth carrying 
around. When properly basing a chimney, fit all the 
joints before nailing, and then clamp all the pieces 
in their proper places by nailing blocks on the floor 
and driving in braces. One will be surprised at 
what a neat job can be done and how easy it is to 
do it. There will not be the usual difficulty in driv- 
ing the hails, and cracked and mutilated chimney 
corners will not bear evidence of a bad job of basing 
around them. The great difficulty of driving nails 
into the bricks is largely overcome by having the work 
clamped tightly against it. 



BINDING SLIDING DOORS. 

I have frequently noticed that a remedy is wanted 
for binding shding doors. This question is very fre- 
quently asked, and it is not to be wondered at, for 
not one sliding door in ten put up works in anything 
like a satisfactory manner. I have had a great deal 
of experience with sliding doors, and am pretty well 
acquainted with the common defects and causes of 
unsatisfactory working. I do not wonder that a good 
remedy is wanted for these troublesome doors, for 
unless they work properly they become a great 
inconvenience. The causes of the unsatisfactory work- 
ing of sliding doors are many, and a little general 
information on the subject may not come amiss. 
Nearly all the causes of the imperfect working of 
sliding doors can be traced directly to the improper 
construction of some part of the work in putting them, 
up, and in most cases an ounce of prevention is worth 
about 4 pounds of the cure. As overhead hangers are 
almost exclusively used these are the ones we will take 
into consideration. First, it is necessary that the floor 
under sliding-door partitions should be perfectly solid 
and very nearly level. 

It is a common occurrence for buildings to settle, 
and if partitions, which often have a great weight to 
support, are not provided with a properly constructed 
foundation, they will settle enough to throw the or- 
dinary sliding door entirely out of working order. 
It will not do to block up under sliding-door parti- 
7^ 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 79 

tions with a little chip, a piece of shingle, a little loose 
dirt under a post in the cellar bottom or some fresli 
mortar, as is often practiced. As the increased weight 
of the plastering and floors is put upon the partitions 
above, the floors begin to settle. I have seen floors 
under sliding doors ^ inch out of level. How can 
sliding doors work when put up under such circum- 
stances? If the track was level, one door would be 
sure to strike the floor as it was rolled back, while the 
other door would rise almost i^ inches from the 
floor. Again, if the track was not level, but placed 
parallel with the floor, then the doors could not be 
adjusted to hang plumb; consequently, they would not 
fit the jambs, unless the jambs were set to fit the doors 
^ inch out of plumb. 

Thus far we see that the floor must be perfectly 
solid and level, the partitions must be set plumb, the 
headers put in solid and of sufficient strength to carry 
all the weight placed upon them without yielding 
or sagging. We will now turn our attention to 
the putting up of the track. This should be level 
and straight, and it should be straight sideways as 
well as on top where the rollers run. This is a point 
overlooked by many. They think if the track is 
straight on top that is all that is necessary, but short 
kinks sideways in a track will cause the doors to run 
crooked — running away from the stops on one side 
of the jamb, and crowding them on the other, often 
causing binding. Again, most hangers require a 
double track, constructed in the following manner: 
The track is i x i^ inch, and screwed to the edge 
of a board J^ x 6 inches. These boards are then fas- 



8o 



THE builders' GUIDE. 



tened to the partitions at the proper hightfor the doors, 
and another piece 4^ inches wide, called a spreader, 
is placed over the top. The sketch. Fig. 56, gives a 
general idea of the construction of the track and box- 
ing. In the diagram it will be noticed that the open- 

















^--^.^~- 






SPREADER {'x 4^ 





















Z 


fO 






o 








13 


X 




<0 


z 
o 






fc 


o 














z 

X 

o 

03 




o 

z 

§ 

CQ 


fe 










TRACK 




TRACK 








JAMB 




r-- 


; 


JAMB 




o 






O 






z 






Z 

























o 













Q 






3 






r) 






1- 






h- 






w 












(O 





Fig. 56.- 



-Section Showing Construction of Track and Boxing for 
Sliding Doors. 



ing between the tracks and between the jambs, through 
which the lower part of the door hanger passes, is 
only I inch wide. The hangers have small friction 
rollers, which run between the two tracks, serving as 
a guide for the wheels above, and not leaving more 



THE builders' GUIDE. 8t 

than ys inch play between the two tracks. This 
ys inch is plenty of room if the work is properly done. 
It is necessary that the friction rollers run close to the 
track in order that the doors may run true and with- 
out crowding the door stops. But suppose the box- 
ing is insecurely fastened to the studding, the 
dampness from the plastering, when it is put on, 
causes the two 6-inch boards to cup. The tendency 
at once is to narrow the opening required by the fric- 
tion rollers of the hangers, thus causing a binding of 
the door hangers between the two tracks. Again, 
suppose the spreader, which is for the sole purpose 
of keeping the tracks the right distance apart, is care- 
lessly put in a little narrow, or, perhaps, left out en- 
tirely, as it is occasionally by some, who consider it 
an unnecessary appendage to the working of sliding 
doors, then there is practically nothing to keep the 
tracks from springing together, causing a binding of 
the doors. 

Again, if the spreader is narrow or left out, the 
continual pounding of the lathers on the partition 
walls, and the carpenters in finishing, have a tend- 
ency to drive the partitions a little closer together, 
especially if they are not securely fastened at the top. 
Fully as many binding sliding doors are caused by 
the tracks springing together as in any other way, 
and when from this cause, the remedy is a difficult 
one to apply, as the doors may have to be taken down 
and the sides of the track trimmed off with very 
long-handled, sharp-edged tools. This cause of bind- 
ing Is likely to be overlooked, as it is the least 
suspected, and comes very near being an invisible 



S2 THE BUILDERS^ GUIDE. 

cause. Again, we will suppose that a building being 
erected is to have sliding doors- — that the tracks are 
put in level and at the proper time. Now, after the 
building has been plastered and the carpenter comes 
to finish the sliding doors, he finds that the weight 
of the plastering or something has caused the floor 
to settle and the track is out of level. Well, about 
nine carpenters out of ten will put the head- jamb 
level, which will bring one end of the jamb down 
from the track just as much as the floor is out of 
level. The consequence is that when the doors slide 
back, on-e of them will rub the head-jamb and quite 
likely stick fast. The head- jamb belongs snug up to 
the bottom edge of the track, as shown in Fig. 56, 
and there is where it should be placed, even if the 
track is out of level. To level the head-jamb when 
the track is not level only makes matters worse. A 
doorway with the head- jamb slightly out of level will 
not be noticed, but a door that will stick fast will 
be noticed every time it is opened. Of course I ad- 
vocate doing the work correctly in the first place, 
and am now showing what to do in cases of emer- 
gency. Sometimes it is necessary to rabbet the head- 
jambs at the lower portion of the inside edge, as 
shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 56. Again, some 
workmen do not plow the groove in the bottom edge 
of the door deep enough for the floor guide. It might 
work when the door was first fitted, but a little settling 
of the track would cause binding of the door. This 
can be easily remedied by letting the floor guide into 
the floor, or by taking the door down and plowing 
the groove deeper. The former is the easiest and 



THE builders' GUIDE. 83 

quickest and in every way just as good. The binding 
of sliding doors is often caused by the door stops be- 
ing placed too close to the doors. When this is the 
case a removal of the stops and placing them a little 
further away will remedy the trouble. 

In hanging sliding doors it is better, if possible, to 
do so before the jambs are set. Many times little 
things that would interfere with the proper working 
of the doors can be easily remedied; whereas, if the 
jambs were set, they would be concealed from gen- 
eral view, and not discovered until they had caused 
a considerable amount of trouble. Is there any dif- 
ference in door hangers? is a question which very 
naturally arises. In our estimation there is consider- 
able difference, although any of them, I think, would 
give satisfaction if every part of the work in putting 
them up was done in a substantial manner. Some 
hangers have more points of excellence than others, 
but I think the Prescott hanger the nearest perfec- 
tion. With this hanger there is no track and no 
rollers. The doors hang suspended from the back 
edge, the hangers being fastened to the studding 
back of the jambs. They are as nearly frictionless 
as a door swinging on hinges, and there is no binding 
of doors from tracks and rollers. In fact, there is no 
more chance for the doors to bind from settling par- 
titions than there is with the ordinary swinging doors 
on common hinges. Of the double-track overhead 
hangers, I think the Annex a very good specimen. 
All parts of the hanger are accurately fitted and the 
adjustment is as good as could be desired. The 
Standard door hanger is another good specimen, and 



84 THE builders' GUIDE. 

I think sometimes it will allow doors to work free 
and easy under circumstances where other overhead 
hangers would not. 

TO PREVENT LEAKS IN BAY WINDOWS. 

It seems to be a very difficult matter for a carpenter 
to build a bay window that will not leak in a bad rain 
storm. There are comparatively few bays built that 
do not have a window or a large double window di- 
rectly over them, and the leak is almost invariably 
down the side of the casings of these windows. The 
bay window may be well roofed and the tin turned 
up under the siding for 5 or 6 inches, yet it will leak, 
and where the water gets in will be a mystery to a 
close observer. Water-tight joints are not always 
made in siding, and sometimes the casings shrink from 
the siding; then the rain beats in by the side of the 
casing of the upper windows and runs down behind 
the tin turned up from the roof, thus causing a leak. 
To prevent this, saw through the sheeting under the 
window casings and to about 6 inches each side, slant- 
ing the same upward in sawing. Now put a piece 
of tin well into the saw kerf, and bend it down over 
the tin that turns up from the roof ; then, after the sid- 
ing is properly put on, we have a bay window that is 
positively water tight. Care should be taken in siding 
not to drive nails too near the roof. It is better to 
slant them a little upward in driving. In no case 
should the sills of the upper windows come closer 
than 4^ inches to the roof of the bay window, as it 
is necessary to have room for the tin to insure a good 
job. 



THE builders' GUIDE. 85 

SHINGLING HIPS AND VALLEYS. 

There are several methods of shingUng hips and 
valleys, but as most mechanics are familiar with the 
different methods, I will briefly describe only a few 
of the best and most practical ones. In shingling 
hips both sides should be shingled up at the same 
time, and on hip roofs of unequal pitch it is neces- 
sary to lay the shingles more to the weather on the 
long side of roof than on the short side, in order to 
have the courses member evenly on the hip. One 
method frequently employed is to cut the hip shingles 
so that the straight edge of the shingles will line with 
the center of the hip when laid, and the grain of the 
wood run parallel with the hip instead of straight up 
the roof, as in the case of common shingles. Some 
are inclined to think this method makes a nicer look- 
ing job than the old way of placing the sawed edge 
of hip shingle to the hip line. As it is customary to 
use tin hip shingles, I think the old way is by far the 
best, as the water which falls on the roof will run 
with the grain of the wood, and not soak into the 
shingles, as it would running diagonally across the 
grain. 

The same is true in shingling valleys. Always 
place the valley shingles with the grain of the wood 
running up the roof the same as the common shin- 
gles, then the water running down the roof to the 
valley will run with the grain of the wood. Some 
trouble is experienced in shingling valleys straight. 
The usual custom is to put in a strip of 14-inch tin 
for the valley, and strike two chalk lines, leaving a 



86 THE builders' guide. 

space in the center of the valley 2 inches wide at the 
top and 3 inches at the bottom for the valley. It is 
a very particular job to shingle to a chalk line up a 
valley and shingle it straight. Then again, the line 
will be rubbed out before the shingling is half done. 
A better way is to stand a 2 x 4 up edgewise in the 
valley, fasten it straight with a few pieces of shingles 
for braces and shingle to the 2x4, which answers as 
a straight edge. In this way one will get a respect- 
able looking valley, even when shingled by inexperi- 
enced hands. I have frequently seen valleys which 
some one had tried to shingle to a line that were at 
least 2 inches crooked, and between 5 and 6 inches 
wide in places, generally wider in the middle than at 
either end. Wide valleys should be avoided, as they 
are very liable to leak. In shingling a valley no nails 
should be driven through the valley tin except near 
the outer edge, as a nail hole will frequently cause 
a leak by water getting under the shingles. The best 
way to shingle a valley is to use single sheets of tin, 
10 x 14 inches, under each of the courses of shingles, 
leaving only about ^ inch of the tin exposed below 
the butts of the shingles. Make a close joint with 
them in the valley, and a good as well as neat looking 
job will be the result when the work is finished. To 
increase the durability of the valley paint the tin flash- 
ings before laying. 



ART OF ROOF FRAHINQ. 

Probably no part in the construction of buildings 
so thoroughly taxes the skill and ingenuity of the 
builder as the framing of roofs. Many diagrams have 
been published from time to time showing how to 
find the lengths and bevels of hips, valleys and jacks 
on all kinds of roofs. Yet many of the plans here- 
tofore published have been too complicated to satisfy 
the wants of the inexperienced in the art of roof 
framing. At this time will 
be presented a choice of 
methods, beginning with 
the simplest form and il- 
lustrating the subject step 
by step, thus showing new 
and novel plans as they 
^ will appear in actual prac- 
tice. 

First will be introduced 
a plan showing how to 
obtain the lengths and bevels of common rafters, hips, 
valleys and jacks in the simplest manner, and with 
the fewest lines possible. Referring to Fig. 57, draw 
a horizontal line twice the run of the common rafter, 
as A B. From the center of this line at C erect a 
perpendicular, continuing it indefinitely. Next set off 
on the perpendicular the rise of the common rafter 
C D ; connect D and B for the length of the common 
rafter. A bevel set in the angle at B will give the 

87 




Fig. 57. — Obtaining Lengths and 
Bevels of Rafters. 



88 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



bottom cut and at D the top cut. Next set off on the 
perpendicular line the length of the common rafter 
C E, which is the same length as D B. Connect E 
and A for the length of the hip or valky, as the case 
may be. Next space the jacks on the line A C and 
draw perpendicular lines joining the hip or valley. 
The lines J J will be the lengths of the jacks, and a 
bevel set in the angle at F, where the jack joins the 
hip or valley, will give the bevel across the back of 
the same. The plumb cut or down bevel of a jack is 
always the same as that of the common rafter. There 
are now shown all the lines necessary to be drawn, 
the plan indicating every- 
thing but the cuts of the 
hip or valley rafter, and 
this, be it remembered, is 
always 17 for the bottom 
cut and the rise of the 
common rafter to the foot 
run for the top cut. As 
some may think a system 
which does not show 
cuts of a hip or valley as 
well as its length is incomplete, we will take the same 
plan and by the addition of three more lines show 
everything that can be desired, as in Fig. 58. Draw 
the lines the same as in Fig. 57, then set off on the 
perpendicular line the run of the common rafter 
C F. Connect F and B for run of hip or valley. Next 
square up the rise from F to G and connect G and B 
for the length of hip or valley rafter. A bevel set in 
the angle at B will give the bottom cut, and at G the 




the Fig. 58. — Diagram Showing Cuts 
of Hip or Valley Rafters. 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



89 



top cut. It will be noticed in Fig. 58 that the lines 
A E and G B are of the same length, and in both cases 
represent the hip or valley, while showing it in dif- 
ferent positions. The line A E shows the hip or valley 
in position for finding the length and bevel of the 
jacks, while the line G B shows the hip or valley in 
position to find the length and bevels of the same. 
This plan will work on roofs of any pitch and 
has only to be slightly varied to meet the require- 
ments of roofs having 
hips and valleys of two 
pitches. On half pitch 
roofs one less line is re- 
quired, as shown in Fig. 
59. The line D B in Fig. 
58 comes in the same po- 
sition as F B, when ap- 
plied to half pitch roofs, 
and is therefore the 
length of the common 
rafter and at the same 
time represents the run 

of the hip rafter. As two lines cannot be drawn in 
the same space we drop the line D B, remembering 
that it is shown by F B. 

BEVEL OF JACK RAFTERS. 

Before proceeding further with the subject of roof 
framing we will illustrate a very simple method for 
obtaining the bevel across the back of jack rafters, 
or any rafter which cuts on a bevel across the back. 
Referring to Fig-. 60, draw the plumb line or pitch of 




A C B 

Fig. 59. — Diagram for Half Pitcli 
Eoofs. 



go THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 

the roof on the side of the rafter B C. Next draw 
another plumb line the thickness of the rafter from 
the first, and measured square from B C, as shown 
by the dotted lines. Square across the back of the 
rafter, from the dotted plumb line to A. Connect A 
with B, and the lines to follow in cutting are ABC. 
This plan is worth remembering, as it will work on 
roofs of any pitch, and, in fact, will cut the bevel 
across the back of any rafter which cuts on a bevel. It 
is the plumb cut and the thickness of the rafter applied 
in the manner described that does the business every 
time. After the cuts have 
been found bevels can 
be set for them if desired. 

BACKING HIP RAFTERS. 

Let us now consider 
the backing of the hip 
rafter, an item which on 
common house and barn 
framing is of but little ,,g e,3_o,C.^.^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^^^ 

importance, yet it is well the Back of Jack Rafters. 

enough to know how it 

is done. Almost any roof is as good without as with 
the hips backed, and when the roof is completed it is 
impossible to tell which method was pursued. In cases 
where the hip rafter is doubled or very thick it is 
advisable to back it, but ordinarily this is unnecessary, 
being a waste of time. Where backing is necessary, a 
rule near enough for all practical purposes is as fol- 
lows : Working from the center of the back of rafter 
set the bevel to cut off 




THE builders" GUIDE. pi 

% inch in 1 inch for three-fourth pitch roofs. 
% inch in 1 inch for one-half pitch roofs. 
% inch in 1 inch for one-third pitch roofs. 
1/4 inch in 1 inch for one-quarter pitch roofs. 

As the above table may not be considered a scien- 
tific way of doing the work, Fig. 6i is presented. 
Draw a horizontal line, A B, and from A draw an- 
other at an angle representing the bottom cut of the 
hip rafter, as A C. On the line A C square up the 
thickness of the rafter to D. Mark the center and 
draw the line C F at an angle of 45° to A D. On the 
line E F square up from E to G, and the lines for the 




A 

Fig. 61. — Backing a Hip Rafter. 



backing are G E F. The other lines are merely to 
show that the piece is off the bottom end of the hip 
rafter itself. 

HIP ROOFS OF UNEQUAL PITCHES. 

In Fig. 62 is shown the manner in which the method 
represented in Fig. 58 may be varied to meet the re- 
quirements of roofs of unequal pitches. Draw the 
line A B, In length equal to the runs of the common 
rafters on both the long and short sides of the hips. 



92 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



Divide the line A B so that A C will represent the 
run of the common rafter on the long side of the hip 
and C B the run of the common rafter on the short 
side. From C erect a perpendicular line, extending 
it indefinitely. Set off on the perpendicular line the 
rise of the common rafter C D. Connect D with 
A and with B for the length: of the common rafters. 
A bevel set at D on line A D will give the top cut of 
common rafter on the long side of hip and at A the 
bottom cut. A bevel set at D on line B D will give 
the top cut of common rafter on the short side of 
hip and at B the bottom cut. Next set off on the 
perpendicular line the length of the common rafter 
on the short side of the hip C E. Connect E with 
A for the length of the hip and position for finding 
the length and bevel of jacks on the short side of 
the hip. A bevel 
set in the angle 
where they join 
the hip line A E 
will give the 
bevel across the 
back. The plumb 
cut or down 
bevel is the 
same as that of 
the common 
rafter on the 
short side of the 
hip shown at D 

on the line D B. Next set off on perpendicular the 
length of common rafter on the long side of hip C F ; 




Fig. 62.— Diagram Sliowing How Method Pre- 
sented in Fig. 58 may be Varied for Roofs 
of Unequal Pitches. 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. q$ 

connect F with B for the hip and position for finding 
the length and bevel of jacks on the long side of the 
hip. A bevel set in the angle where they join the hip 
line F B will give the bevel across the back. The plumb 
cut or down bevel is the same as that of the common 
rafter on the long side of the hip, shown at D on the 
line A D. To find the cut of the hip rafter set off on 
the perpendicular the run of the common rafter on 
the short side of hip C a. Connect a with A for the 
run of the hip. Square up the rise of the hip a H 
and connect H with A for the hip rafter. A bevel 
set in the angle at H will give the top cut and at A 
the bottom cut. It will be noticed that the lines B F, 
A E and A H show the length of the hip rafters. B F 
shows hip rafter in position for finding the length 
and bevel of the jacks on the long side of the hip. 
A E shows the hip in position for finding the length 
and bevel of the jacks on the short side of the hip. 
A H shows the hip in position for finding the length 
and bevel of the hip rafter. For plain hips and val- 
leys on roofs of equal pitch no one could wish for an 
easier method than represented in Fig. 58, but Fig. 
62, which has been modified to meet the requirements 
of roofs of unequal pitches, necessarily makes the 
method more complicated, and with beginners there is 
much danger of making mistakes by taking measure- 
ments and bevels on the wrong side, as the lengths 
of jacks for the long side of roof appear on the short, 
run of common rafter, and vice versa the jacks for the 
short side of roof. This circumstance may seem some- 
what strange, yet it is nevertheless true, and can per- 
haps be more fully demonstrated by Fig. 63. 



94 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



GREAT CIRCLE OF JACK RAFTERS. 

The great circle of jack rafters is another modifica- 
tion of Fig. 58 for roofs of unequal pitches. Refer- 
ring to Fig. 63, let A B represent the long run of 
common rafter, B E the rise and A E the length. A 




Fig. 63. — Great Circle of Jack Rafters. 

bevel set at E on the line A E will give the down bevel 
and at A the bottom bevel. B C is the short run of 
common rafters, B E the rise and C E the length. 
A bevel set at E on the line C E will give the down 
bevel and at C the bottom bevel. B D is the short 
run of the common rafter and the same as B C; then 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 95 

A D is the angle and run of the hip, D F the rise, and 
A F the length of hip rafter. The bevel at F is the 
down bevel and at A the bottom bevel. A H shows the 
hip rafter A F dropped down in position to find the 
length and bevel of the jacks for the side of roof hav- 
ing the short run of common rafter. Space the jacks 
on the line A B and draw perpendicular lines joining 
the hip line A H for the length of jacks. A bevel set 
in the angle at G will give the bevel across the back. 
The down bevel is the same as that of the common 
rafter for the short run and is shown at E on the line 
C E, H is the apex of the triangle formed on the side 
of the roof having the short run of common rafter. 
It is evident that the apex of the triangle formed on 
the side of the roof having the long run of the common 
rafter must be at the same point, therefore H is the 
apex of the hip and of the common rafters from either 
side of the hip. Now, to find the length and bevel of 
jacks on the side of roof having the long run of com- 
mon rafter, measure down from H to I the length of 
the common rafter on the long run, which is the same 
as A E. From I set off the short run of common 
rafter to J ; connect J with H, which places the hip 
rafter in position for finding the length and bevel 
of jacks on the side of roof having the long run of 
common rafter. Space the jacks on the line I J and 
draw perpendicular lines, joining the hip line J H, 
which gives the length of jacks. A bevel set in the 
angle at K will give the bevel across the back. The 
down bevel is the same as that of the common rafter 
for the long run, and is shown at E on the line A E. 
The circular lines show that taking H as a center the 



g6 THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 

triangle H I J will swing around opposite the triangle 
A B H, and bring every jack opposite its mate on 
the hip line A H, thus proving the correctness of the 
method, as well as showing how to space the jacks 
correspondingly. 

In Fig. 64 is shown another method for obtaining 
the lengths and cuts of rafters in hip roofs of un- 
equal pitch. Let ABC represent the wall plate and 
D E F the deck plate; then A E is the run of the 
common rafter on the short side of the hip, E D the 
rise and A D the length. 

The bevel at D is the plumb cut at the top and at 
A the bottom cut. From A set off the length of the 
common rafter to G, which should be the same length 
as A D. Connect B G, which places the hip rafter 
in position to find the length and bevel of jacks on 
the short side of the hip. Space the jacks on the line 
B A, and draw perpendicular lines joining the hip 
line B G for the length of the jacks on the short side 
of the hip. The bevel at J is the bevel across the 
back of the same. The plumb cut or down bevel is 
the same as that of the common rafter shown at D. 
C E is the run of the common rafter on the long side 
of the hip, E F being the rise and C F the length. 
The bevel at F is the plumb cut at the top and at C 
the bottom cut. From C set off the length of the com- 
mon rafter to H, which should be the same length 
as C F. Connect B H, which places the hip rafter in 
position to find length and bevel of jacks on the long 
side of the hip. Space the jacks on the line B C and 
draw the same, joining the hip line B H, which will 
give the length of jacks on the long side of the hip. 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



97 



The bevel at K is the bevel across the back. The 
plumb cut or down bevel is the same as that of the 
common rafter shown at F. BE is the angle and run 
of the hip, E I the rise and B I the length of the hip 
rafter. The bevel at I is the plumb cut at the top 
and at B the bottom cut fitting the plate. Now, 
the lines B G, B H and B I show the hip rafter in 
three different positions for finding the length and 




Fig. 64. — Another Method of Obtaining Lengths and Cuts of 
Rafters in Hip Roofs of Unequal Pitches. 



bevels of the jacks and the hip, and are practically 
the same as shown in Fig. 62. Of the twO' plans Fig. 
64 is perhaps plainer and more easily understood, yet 
both have the common difficulty, a confusion of cross 
lines, which is very bothersome to many who are try- 
ing to master the art of roof framing. To make this 
system of roof framing so plain that even the most 
inexperienced may readily master it, we will show 
how the first simple method, Fig. 57, may be further 
extended to m.eet the req,uirements of anv roof, show- 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



ing all the rafters without the usual complications 
of cross lines. The plan never fails on roofs of any 
pitch, equal or unequal, and, no matter how compli- 
cated the roof may be, it will all appear easy by this 
method. 

COMPLICATED ROOF FRAMING MADE EASY, 

Let us now take the plan of a hip roof building 
having a long run of common rafter on one side of 




Fig. 65. — Plan of an Irregular Hip Roof. 

the hip and a short run on the opposite side. This 
kind of a hip is called an irregular hip, because the 
base line or run of the hip is not on an angle of 45° 
with the plates, as in the regular hip. In Fig. 65 
A B is the run of common rafter on the left side of 
the hip and the long run. B D is the run of com- 
mon rafter on the right side of the hip and the short 
run, A D being the run of the hip rafter. Now, to 
make everything plain and avoid the confusion of 
cross lines which are so troublesome to the inex- 
perienced it is better to make separate diagrams 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



99 



showing each succeeding step as the plan progresses 
until all is made clear; then one can adopt the plan 
of separate diagrams or he can combine the whole in 
one if desired. To beginners separate diagrams are 
recommended, especially in connection with compli- 
cated roofs. 

Referring now to Fig. 66, A B is the run of com- 
mon rafter on the left side of the hip, B E the rise 
of roof and A E the length of common rafter for the 
long run. A bevel set in the angle at E will be the 
plumb cut or down bevel at the top, and a bevel set 
at A will give the bottom cut fitting the plate. 
Next set off the run of common rafter on the right 

side of the hip, B C, 
p and connect E with 

C for the length of 
the common rafter for 
the short run. A 
bevel set in the angle 
at E will give the 
down bevel at the top 
and at C the bottom 
cut. We will now 
proceed to find the 
hip rafter and bevels 
for cutting the same. 
A B is the run of the common rafter on the left side 
of the hip, B D the run of common rafter on right 
side of hip, while A D is the run and angle the hip 
makes with the plates. From D square up the rise of 
the roof to F; connect F with A, and we have the 
length of hip rafter. A bevel set in the angle at F will 




Fig. 66. — Diagram for Finding the 
Lengths and Bevels of Rafters for 
Irregular Hip Roofs. 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



give the down bevel at the top and at A the bottom 
bevel fitting the plate. 

The next step will be to show the length and bevels 
of the jack rafters. Referring now to Fig. ^J, draw a 
horizontal line, as A C, representing the length of 
plate in the plan. From A set off the run of the com- 
mon rafter on the left or long run to B. From B erect 
a perpendicular to F, which is the length of common 




A BE C 

Fig. 67. — Lengths and Bevels of Jack Rafters. 



rafter on the short run and shown by E C in Fig. 66. 
Connect F with A, and the hip line is in position for 
finding the lengths and bevels of the jacks on the side 
of the building having the short run of common rafter. 
Space the jacks on the line A B and draw perpendicu- 
lar lines joining the hip line. This will give the lengths 
of jacks, and a bevel set in the angle at G will give the 
bevel across the back of the same. The plumb cut or 
down bevel will be the same as that of the common 
rafter on the short run. F D shows the length of 
ridge and the space which the common rafters occupy. 
C E D shows a space for jacks similar to A B F. It 
is unnecessary to draw the jacks In this space, and it 
is therefore left blank. The next step will be to find 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



the lengths and bevels of the jacks on the end of the 
building having the long run of the common rafter. 
Referring to Fig. 68, let A C represent the width of 
the building, A B the run of the common rafter on 
short run, B F the length of common rafter on long 
run and the same as shown by A E in Fig. 66. Space 
the line A B for the jacks and draw perpendicular 
lines joining the hips. A bevel set in angle at L will 
give the bevel across the back. The plumb cut or down 
bevel will be the same as that of the common rafter on 
the long run. Now everything desired has been 
shown, and without the confusion of cross-lines. By 
this method all complica- 
tions in roof framing are 
made easy. And the 
most difficult roofs will 
show the superiority of 
this plan, as it is rarely 
ever necessary to cross 
a line, and if necessary 
every rafter may be 
shown. For roofs having 
hips and gables of varying 
pitches this plan has no 
e q u al. In Fig. 69 is 
shown how Figs. 66, 67 and 




ABC 

Fig. 68. — Finding Lengths and 
Bevels of Jack Rafters on the 
End of Building Having the 
long run of the Common Rafter. 



may be combined to 
indicate the different lengths and cuts of all the rafters 
directly from the plan. 

This method is attended with many cross lines and 
is not recommended even to the most experienced, 
for, in connection with complicated roofs, there is 
danger of making mistakes. Referring to the plan. 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



Fig. 69, A B is the run of the common rafter on the 
left side of the hip, and the long run B E is the rise, 
A E being the length. A bevel set at E on the line 
A E will give the plumb cut or down bevel, and at 
A the bottom bevel. B C is the run of the common 
rafter on the right side of the hip, and the short run 
B E the rise and E C the length. A bevel set at E, 
on the line C E, will give the plumb cut or down bevel, 
and at C the bottom bevel. 

A B is the long run of the common rafter, B D the 




B C 

Fig. 69. — Showing how several Diagrams may be combined to indi- 
cate directly from the Plan the different Lengths and Cuts of 
all the Rafters. 



short run of the common rafter, A D the angle and 
run of the hip, D F the rise of the hip and A F the 
length of hip rafter. The bevel at F is the down bevel 
and at A the bottom bevel. B H is the length of the 
common rafter for the short run and the same as C E, 
while A H is the hip dropped down in position for 
finding lengths and bevel for jacks on the side of the 
roof having the short run of the common rafter. The 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. I03 

jacks are spaced on the line A B and drawn perpen- 
dicular, joining the hip line A H. A bevel set in the 
angle at G will give the bevel across the back. 

The plumb cut or down bevel is the same as that 
of the common rafter on the short run, and is shown 
at E on the line E C. The letters I J represent the 
length of the common rafter for the long run, which is 
the same as A E; then J K is the length and position 
of the hip for finding lengths and bevel for the back 
of the jacks on the side having the long run of the 
common rafter. Space the jacks on the line I K and 
draw them at right angles joining the hip line K J. 
A bevel set in the angle at L will give the bevel across 
the back of the same, the down bevel being the same 
as that of the common rafter on the long run. It is 
shown at E on line E A. In Fig. 69 all the work is 
shown in one diagram very plainly, yet to many it 
may appear somewhat complicated. Two pitches in 
one roof always make a complication of bevels, often 
requiring many lines to illustrate. As a proof of 
the correctness of this method observe the following 
point : A F, A H and J K each represent the hip rafter, 
showing it in different positions, and if the work is 
right these lines must be of the same length. A F is 
the position of the hip for finding the cuts, while A H 
is the position of the hip for finding the bevel for the 
back of the jack on the short run. J K is the position 
for finding the bevel for back of jack on the long run. 
Having shown the most practical system of hip roof 
framing, let us consider its application to some of the 
most complicated plans which frequently come up in 
actual practice. 



I04 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



HIPS ON END OF BUILDING OUT OF SQUARE. 

A plan of a hip roof with one end out of square is 
shown in Fig. 70. Let A B C D represent the plates 
in the plan; DEC the angle and run of hips on the 
square end of the plan, and A F B the angle and run 
of hips on the end which is out of square. In order 
to determine the point F so that the ridge of the roof 
will be level, make A F H equal to D E G in the plan. 



v^ 


1 
i 

7 

/F N 


J^/ 


\^ 


> 


/\ 



A H M D 

Fig. 70. — Plan of Hip Roof with One End Out of Square. 

From F on line A F square up the rise of hip to I, 
which connect with A for the hip rafter. Then I is 
the down and A the bottom bevels. The hip rafters 
on the square end of the plan will be the same length 
as A I and will have the same bevels. From F, on 
the line B F, square up the rise of roof to J, which 
connect with B for the length of the hip on the long 
corner. Then J is the down and B the bottom bevel. 
K F is the run, F L the rise and K L the length of the 
common rafter on the end of plan which is out of 
square. L is the down bevel and K the bottom bevel. 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



105 



M N O shows the rise, run and length of the common 
rafter on the main plan, O being the down bevel and 
M the bottom bevel. 

To avoid the great confusion of cross lines which 
would now follow if the work was further developed 
in Fig. 70, we will dispense with this plan, only tak- 
ing from it measurements to develop the new lines 
and bevels of the rafters. Referring now to Fig. 71, 
let A D represent the plate, A H the run of the com- 





A. H D 

Fig. 71. — Diagram for Finding Lengths and Bevels of 
Jacks on Front Side of Plan, Fig. 70. 

mon rafter and H I the length of the common rafter 
on the main roof, which is the same as M O of Fig. 
70. Connect I with A for the position of the hip for 
finding the lengths and bevels of jacks on the front 
side of plan. Space the rafters on the line A D and 
draw them perpendicular to the hip. 

A bevel set in the angle where they join the hip line 
will give the bevel across the back of the jacks, the 
down bevel being the same as that of the common 
rafter on the main part. It is shown at O in Fig. 70. 
The lengths and bevels of the jacks on the square end 
of the plan will be the same as the part of the roof 
already illustrated. The hip rafter D E is the same 



io6 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



as A I. We will now consider the end of the plan 
which is out of square. Referring to Fig. 72, the lines 
B C A show how much the plan is out of square. 
A B is the plate, K L the length of the common 
rafter on the end of plan, being the same as K L 
of Fig. 70; B L the hip on the long corner, being the 
same as B J of Fig. 70, while A L is the hip on 
the short corner, and is the same as A I of Fig. 
70. Space the jacks on the line B A and draw 
them perpendicular, joining B A with the hip lines 
B L A, which gives the 
lengths of jacks on this 
end of the plan. The 
bevel at E is the bevel 
across the back joining 
the long hip. The bevel 
at F is the bevel across 
the back joining the short 
hip. The down bevel is 
the same as that of the 
common rafter shown at 

Fig. 72.— Diagram of End of Plan L in Fig. 70. We have 
Out of Square. ^^^ ^^ f^^^ ^^It lengths 

and bevels of the jacks 
on the rear side of the long hip. Referring to Fig. 
73, B C represents the rear plate, B D is the square 
of the hip, being the same as B P of Fig. 70 ; D L the 
length of the common rafter, being the same as O M 
of Fig. 70, while B L is the position of the hip for 
finding the lengths and bevels of jacks on the rear 
side of the long hip, and is of the same length as B L 
of Fig. ^2. The jacks are spaced wider on B D, Fig. 




THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



107 



yi, than on B K, Fig. y2, in order that they may 
meet opposite on the hip B L. Draw the jacks per- 
pedicular from B D, Fig. 73, joining the hip B L, 
which will give their lengths. A bevel set in the angle 
at E where they join the hip will give the bevel across 
the back. The down bevel will be the same as that 
of the common rafter on the main part of this side of 
the roof. 

GABLES OF DIFFERENT PITCHES. 

In Fig. 74 is represented a plan of a roof having 
three gables of varying pitches. The right gable ABC 





Fig. 73. — Diagram for Finding tlie Lengths and Bevels of the 
JacliS on the Rear Side of the Long Hip. 

is 16 feet wide and has a rise of 8 feet. The front 
gable D F G is 18 feet wide and has a rise of 8 feet. 
The last gable J I H is 21 feet wide and has a rise of 
8 feet. It will be noticed that the left gable has two 
different pitches. This plan shows as much irregu- 
larity as can be desired and as much as is generally 
encountered in actual practice. We will now proceed 
to find the lengths and different cuts of the various 
rafters required in this roof. The dotted lines repre- 
sent lines plumb under the ridge of the gables. The 
lengths of the common rafters and their proper cuts 



io8 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



may be taken from each of the three gables sepa- 
rately, and are so plain and easily understood from 
the diagram that further explanation is unnecessary. 
The roof has two valleys of different pitches, of which 
the lines N L K are the seats or runs. To find the 
length of the valley rafter on the right side of the 
front gable on the line K L, square up the rise of the 




Fig. 74. — Plan of Roof Having Three Gables of Varying Pitclies. 



roof from L to M, connect M with K, and we have 
the length of the valley rafter. A bevel set in the an- 
gle at M will give the down bevel at the top and the 
angle at K the bottom cut fitting the plate. To find 
the length of the valley rafter on the left side of the 
front gable on the line N L, square up the rise of the 
roof from L to O and connect O with N for the 
length of the valley rafter. A bevel set in the angle 
at O will give the down bevel at the top and the an- 
gle at N, the bottom cut fitting the plate. Now, if 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



109 



we were to draw all the lines in Fig. 74 necessary to 
show the lengths and proper cuts of all the different 
jack rafters required in this roof, there would be such 
a number crossing each other at various angles as to 
cause confusion. In this roof there are four different 
cuts of jack rafters, and it is better not to have them 
mixed up with the valleys and common rafters, hence 
we will make separate diagrams. 

Referring now to Fig. 75, to find the lengths and 
bevels of jacks on the front side of right and left 




Fig. 75. — Finding Lengths and Bevels of Jacls Rafters on the 
Front Side of Right and Left Gables Shown in Fig. 74. 

gables, draw a horizontal line, J A, representing the 
entire length of front plate line. Next set off the ex- 
act location of the front gable N K. From the cen- 
ter of the front gable draw a perpendicular line, S O, 
the length of the common rafter on the front side of 
the left gable, the same as J I in Fig. 74. Connect 
O with N for the position of the valley rafter for find- 
ing the lengths and bevels of jacks on the front 
side of the left gable. Square up the length of the 
common rafter on the front side of the left gable J I 
and connect I O for the ridge line. Space the rafters 
on the ridge line and draw perpendicular lines to 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



the plate and valley, which will give the lengths of 
the jacks on the front side of the left gable. A bevel 
set in the angle at W where they join the valley will 
give the bevel across the back. The plumb cut or down 
bevel will be the same as that of the common rafter 
on the front side of the left gable. To find the lengths 
and bevels of jacks on the front side of right gable, 
set off lengths of common rafter from the center of 
the front gable S M, which is the same as A B of 
Fig. 74. Connect M with K for the position of the 
valley rafter for finding the lengths and bevels of the 
jacks on the front side of the right gable. Square 
up the length of the common rafter on the right gable 
A B and connect B M for the ridge line. Space the 
jacks on the ridge line and draw perpendicular lines 
to the plate and valley, which will give the lengths of 
the jacks on the front side of the right gable. A 
bevel set in the angle at Z where they join the 

valley will give the 
bevel across the back. 
The plumb cut or down 
bevel will be the same 
as that of the common 
rafter on the right 
gable. The lines N F K 
show the length of the 
common rafter on the 
front gable. 

To find the lengths 
and bevels of the jacks 
on the right side of the front gable draw a horizon- 
tal line, G C, Fig. 76, representing the plate line. 



F 








M 










y 


B 








; 


^1 


\ 



K T C 

Fig. 76.— Finding Lengttis and Bevels 
of the Jack Rafters on tlie Right 
Side of the Front Gable. 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



On this line set off the location of the right gable 
K C. From the center of the gable set off the length 
of common rafter on the front gable T M, which is 
the same as G F of Fig. 74. Connect M with K for 
the position of valley rafter for finding the lengths 
and bevels of jacks on the right side of the front gable. 
Square up the length of the common rafter on the 
front gable G F, and connect F M for the ridge line. 
Space the jacks on the ridge line and draw perpen- 
dicular lines to the plate and valley, which will give 
the lengths of the jacks on the right side of the front 
gable. A bevel set in the angle at Y will give the 
bevel across the back. The plumb cut or down 
bevel will be the same as that of the common rafter 
on the front gable. The lines K B C show the length 
of the common rafter on the right gable. To find 
the lengths and bevels of the jacks on the left side 
of the front gable draw 
a horizontal line, as H 
D of Fig. 77, represent- 
ing the plate line. On 
this line set off the lo- 
cation of the left gable 
H N. From R, the 
point directly under 
the ridge of this gable, 
set off the length of 
the common rafter on 
the front gable R O, 

which is the same as D F of Fig. 74. Connect O N 
for the position of the valley for finding the lengths 
and bevels of the jacks on the left side of the front 




Fig. 77. — Finding Lengths and Bevels 
of Jacks on the Left Side of the 
Front Gable. 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



gable. A bevel set in the angle at x will give the bevel 
across the back. The plumb cut or down bevel will be 
the same as that of the common rafter on the front 
gable. The lines H I J show the lengths of the com- 
mon rafters on the left gable. 

In order to throw as much light as possible upon 
the subject and present a choice of methods, we will 

H C 




Fig. 78. — Diagram Showing More Clearly tlie Different Cuts 
of Jaclc Rafters. 



give another diagram showing the different cuts of 
the jack rafters in a much plainer manner, and 
which to many, perhaps, will be more satisfactory. 
Fig. 78 shows the wall plate lines exactly the same 
as in Fig. 74, except it is divided on the ridge line of 
the front gable, and spread so far apart that when 
the roof is developed, showing the different jack raft- 
ers in their various positions, there will not be a se- 
ries of lines crossing each other to cause confusion. 
Let H, C, A, K, G, D, N, J, represent the wall plate 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. II3 

lines. The dotted lines R L S and S- L^ 'T are the 
lines plumb under the ridge of the gables. We 
will now proceed to find the jack rafters and their 
proper cuts: Taking the left gable first, on the 
line J H set off the length of the common rafter 
from J to I ; from I, at right angles, draw the line 
I O, which is the ridge proper and extends to the 
center of the front gable represented by the dotted 
Ime L S ; connect O with N for the valley rafter ; 
on the line I O space off the jacks and draw the lines 
connecting them with the valley N O, as shown in 
the diagram. This will give the lengths of the jacks 
in the left gable, and a bevel set in the angle at W 
will give the bevel across the backs of the same. 
The down bevel will be the same as that of the com- 
mon rafter on the front side of the left gable. A sim- 
ilar plan is followed for each gable or each side of a 
gable where the jack rafters are of different lengths 
or have different cuts, as will be readily seen by re- 
ferring to the diagram. The valley lines N O and 
N O" are of the same length and show the valley 
rafters in different positions for finding the lengths 
and cuts of the two divisions of jacks — namely, the 
left gable and the left side of the front gable. The 
valley lines K M and K M^ are of the sam.e length, 
but show the valley rafter in different positions for 
finding the lengths and cuts of the other two divisions 
of jacks — namely, the right gable and the right side 
of the front gable. 

Now elevate the four sections of the roof contain- 
ing the different jacks to their proper pitch, and move 
the two divisions of the diagram together till the 



114 THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 

dotted lines L S and L^ S- meet plumb under the ridge 
of the front gable. What is the result ? N O and N 
O^ join as one line and constitute the left valley. K 
M and K M^ also join as one line and constitute the 
right valley. This would also bring every jack into 
its required position in the roof, as can be plainly seen 
in the diagram. The cuts of the two valley rafters 
must be taken from Fig. 74, as shown and described 
before. The cuts could be shown in Fig. 78, but as 
they would only serve to make the diagram more com- 
plicated, they are omitted. If any one would like to 
see a diagram showing all the rafters and different 
cuts in a roof of this kind, they can draw the lines 
of Figs. 74 and 78 in one diagram. If they will imag- 
ine one of these diagrams placed over the other, the. 
result will probably be satisfactory. 

HIP AND VALLEY ROOFS. 

In Fig. 79 is represented the plan of a hip and val- 
ley roof. This form of a roof is frequentely termed 
broken-back hip and valley, because the main hips 
are intersected by the common rafters of the gables 
from one side and the valley rafters from the other. 
This breaks the line of the hip, hence the origin of 
the term broken back. In Fig. 79 let A B, B C, D E 
and E F represent the line and run of the four main 
hips. It will be seen that C B is the only hip line 
which is not broken by a common rafter or a jack 
from the gables. The main hip line A B is broken at 
H by the common rafter on the front gable, which 
joins it, as shown by the dotted line G H. If A was 
the bottom terminus of the hip it would cause several 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



of the common rafters on the left side of the front 
gable to be cut in two, making more jacks and more 
work, while weakening the general construction of 
the roof. In framing, the hip should stop against 
the ridge of the front gable at H. The hip line D E 
is broken at I by a jack on the left gable, shown by 




Fig. 79. — Plan of Hip and Valley Roof. 

dotted line I J. In framing, the hip should stop 
against the ridge of the left gable at I. The hip line 
F E is broken at K by the intersection of the valley 
rafter L K. For a scientific job of framing the valley 
rafter a b on the front side of right gable should ex- 
tend to the ridge of the rear gable, as it is the nearest 
place of support, and the hip rafter E F should stop 



ii6 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



at c against the valley a b . The line B C is the run 
of the only hip rafter which forms an unbroken line. 
From B square down the rise of the hip to M, and 
connect M with C for the length of the hip rafter. 
A bevel set at M will give the down bevel and at C 
the bottom bevel. The method of obtaining the 
lengths of the hip rafters, which are termed broken 
back, will be plainly illustrated in other diagrams. 
Before proceeding further, however, the reader 



J 






H 


/ 

<1 


G 

1 

\ 


\ 


Is, 






I 


/ 


\ 


1 H 


v^ 






\ 


\ 


\ 


\ 





F D 
FRONT SIDE 

Fig. 80. — Front Elevation of Roof Plan Shown in Fig. 79, 

should be reminded of the fact that on one-half pitch 
roofs the run of a hip or valley is the length of a cor- 
responding common rafter, hence the dotted line D I 
shows the length of the common rafter on the left 
gable for a roof on one-half pitch. If the roof was 
some other pitch^ — say one-third, for example — then 
the length of the comrtion rafter for this gable could 
be shown by setting ofif the run and rise, as indicated 
hy d e f. Proceed in like manner with the gables, and 
also with the main common rafter. Fortunately, there 
is always an easy way of doing work, and we will now 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. II7 

proceed with the method that makes all roof framing 
easy. Referring to Fig. 80, first draw a horizontal 
line, A B, representing the front plate, and set of¥ on 
this line the location or starting points of all hips and 
gables shown on the front of plan, as C D E. Now, C E 
represents the starting points of two of the main hips, 
and also the span of the building having the longest 
common rafter, F being the center of the span. From 
F set off the length of the common rafter perpendicu- 
larly, as shown by the* dotted line F G. Connect G 
with C and E for the length and position of the main 
hips. Set off the length of the common rafter on the 
right gable B H, and draw the ridge line H I ; then I E 
is the length and position of the right gable valley 
rafter. Set off the length of common rafter on the 
left hand gable A J and draw the ridge line J K ; then 
K C is the length and position of the left gable valley. 
Connect K D for the front gable valley. Space and 
draw the rafters as shown, which will give the length 
and cut of every jack in the front elevation, including 
those which cut from the broken hip K G to the valley 
K D. The line K G is also the length of the broken 
hip, which stops against the ridge of the left gable. 
A bevel set in any of the angles where the jacks join 
a hip or valley will give bevel across the back. The 
plumb cut is the same as that of the common rafter. 
C L shows the length of the common rafter on the 
front gable. 

In- Fig. 81 is shown the right' elevation of the roof 
plan, A B representing the length of plate line, C D 
E F the starting points of the hips and valleys on 
the right side of plan, while C and F are the starting 



ii8 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



points of the main hips. From C and F set off the 
run of the main common rafter, as C N and F O. 
From N and O set off the length of the main com- 
mon rafter, as shown by the dotted Hnes N G and O 
P. Connect G and P, which is the ridge of the main 
roof. Connect G C and F P for the main hips. Set 
off the length of the common rafter on the rear gable 
B H and draw the ridge line H I. Set off the length 
of the common rafter on the front gable A J and 
draw the ridge line J K. From the center of the right 




o 

RIGHT SIDE 

Fig. 81. — Right Eleration of Roof Plan Stiown in Fig. 79. 



gable set off the length of the common rafter, as shown 
by the dotted line L M. Draw the valley from D 
through the point M, continuing it to the ridge line or 
rear gable, which is the nearest place of support. Then 
D R is the length of the valley rafter on the front side 
of the right gable. Connect M E for the valley on 
the back side of the right gable. C G is the main hip, 
which is full length. 

C K is the front gable valley, and the jacks are cut 
from the ridge line J K.to the valley C K, also from 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



119 



the plate C D to the main hip C G, and from the ridge 
G P to the valley D M. The main hip P F is broken 
at I, but extends to the valley rafter D R for a proper 
place of support. Jacks are cut from the ridge line 
I H and the valley line M R to the valley M E, as 
shown. The dotted portion of the hip line P F shows 
that if the hip was put in full length it would necessi- 
tate cutting two common rafters and two jacks on 
the rear gable, which would make additional work 





















/ 




\ 




















H 


1/ 








\ 


















y 














M 


/ 












\k 














/ 


\ 














\ 
























/> 


\\ 














\ 




















)/ 


\N 














\ 
















/ 




\ 














\ 








B 




F 








L 






c 


) [ 


) 












c 






A 



Fig. 82. — Left Side Elevation of Roof. 



and have a tendency to weaken the roof. Thus the 
length of every rafter in the right elevation of the 
plan has been shown, and as the bevels are the same 
as indicated in Figs. 79 and 80 further explanation is 
unnecessary. 

In Fig. 82 is shown the left side elevation of the 
roof, in which A B represents .the length of the plate 
line, CDF the starting points of the hips and 
valleys, and C and F the points of the main hips. 
From C and F set off the run of the main common 
rafter, as C D and F O. From O and D set off the 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



length of main common rafter, as shown by the dotted 
lines O P and D G. Connect G and P for the mam 
ridge. Draw G C and P F for length and position 
of main hips. Set off the length of the common rafter 
on the front gable A J and draw the ridge line J K. 
Set off the length of common rafter on the rear gable 
B H and draw the ridge line H I. Now from the cen- 
ter of the left gable set off the length of the common 
rafter, as shown by the dotted line L M. Connect M 
and D for length and position of valley rafter on the 
front side of the left gable. F I will be the length of 
the valley on the rear gable. M P is the length of the 
broken hip which stops against the ridge of the left 
gable at M, and G K is the length of the broken hip 
which stops against the ridge of the front gable at K. 
The jacks are cut from the ridge line H I to the rear 
gable valley F I ; also from the broken hip M P to the 
valley M D and from the broken hip G K and ridge 
line KJ to the plate line AD. The length of the common 
rafter on the left gable is shown by F E. This com- 
pletes the left side elevation and shows the length of 
every hip, valley and jack, as viewed from this side of 
the roof. 

The next diagram. Fig. 83, shows the rear eleva- 
tion of the roof. A B represents the length of the 
plate line, C D E the starting points of hips and 
valleys, and C E the starting points of the main hips. 
Set off the run of the main common rafter, as E F, 
and draw the length of the common rafter perpen- 
dicular, as shown by dotted line F P. Draw P E and 
P C for the length and position of the main hips. Set 
off the length of the common rafter on the left gable 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



A J, and draw the ridge line J K. Set off the length 
of the common rafter on the right gable B H, and 
draw the ridge line H I. From the center of the rear 
gable set off the length of the common rafter, as shown 
by the dotted line L M. Connect M and D for the 
rear gable valley. E G shows the length of the com- 
mon rafter on the rear gable; I E is the right gable 
valley. The broken hip P K stops against the ridge 



; 


\ 
K 


\ 




J 


H i/g 




\ 
\ 




V/ 

y/ 





Fig. 83. 



L F D ' 

REAR SIDE 

-Rear Elevation of Roof. 



of the left gable at K, and the broken hip P M stops 
at the ridge of the rear gable at M. The jacks are cut 
from the ridge line H I to the valley E I and from the 
broken hips M P and P K to the rear gable valley 
M D. This completes the rear elevation and shows the 
length of every rafter as viewed from this side of the 
raof. It wiU be noticed in Fig. 83 that the right gable 
appearjj to the left hand in the diagram and the left 
gable to the right. This is due to the fact that as we 
view the front elevation of the roof, Fig. 80, we call 
the gables right and left. Now, if we view the roof 
from the rear, the right gable will be to our left and 
the left to our right, as shown in Fig. 83. 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



AN IMPORTANT POINT IN ROOF FRAMING. 

For the purpose of illustrating an important point 
in roof framing we will refer to Fig. 84, which repre- 
sents the plan of a roof having three gables of the 
same pitch, but the front gable being narrower than 
the other two. Let ABCDEFGH represent the 
wall plate and from A set off the run of the com- 
mon rafter to I ; square up the rise to J, and connect 

H G 




C D 

Fig. 84, — Roof Having Three Gables of the Same Pitch, the Front 
Gable Being Narrower than the Other Two. 

A and J for the length of the common rafter on the 
main part of the roof. Swing the common rafter 
around to a perpendicular position, as shown by A K 
on the left gable. Set off the length of the common 
rafter on the right gable F L, and connect K with L 
for the ridge line. Next set off the run of the com- 
mon rafter on the front gable E M ; square up the 
rise M N, and draw E N for the length of the com- 
mon rafter. From M set off the len.srth of the com- 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 1 23 

mon rafter perpendicular to O and then draw the 
valley from E through the point O, continuing it to 
the ridge, which is the nearest place of support in a 
self supporting roof. It is a common practice among 
mechanics to stop both valley rafters at O, but this 
leaves the valleys without support and as a conse- 
quence the roof sags and gets out of shape even be- 
fore the carpenter has it finished. This is noticeable 
on large roofs, where, to secure the greatest strength 
in the framing of the roof, it is necessary to run the 
first valley rafter to the ridge, as shown by E P, and 
butt the second valley rafter against the first, as shown 
by B O. E P is the length of the valley rafter which 
joins the ridge and the bevel at P is the bevel across 
the back of the same. B O is the length of left valley 
rafter and cuts square across the back. The jacks are 
cut from the ridge to the valleys, as shown. A bevel 
set in the ang-le where they join the valley will give 
the bevel across the back. The 
plumb cut is the same as that of 
the common rafter, shown at J. To 
find the plumb cut of the valleys 
set off the run of the common rafter 
on the front gable A B, Fig. 85; 
now, at right angles to A B set off 
the run of common rafter from B 
to C, and draw A C for the run of ^. o- ^. ,. ^^ 

' Fig. So.— Finding the 

the valley. From C square up the Piumb cut of the 
rise of valley to D and draw D A, vaiiey Rafters, 
which will give the length of the 
left valley the same as B O in Fig. 84. The bevel at 
D, Fig. 85, is the plumb cut and at A the bottom cut. 




124 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



The plumb cut of the valley E P is the same as the 
extension of the rafter to the ridge line and does not 
change the cuts. 

OCTAGON HIP AND JACK RAFTERS. 

Let us now consider the problem of finding the 
lengths and bevels of octagon hips and jacks by the 
easy system. Referring to Fig. 86, let A B C D E 




Fig. 86. — Finding the Lengths and Bevels of Hips and Jacks on an 
Octagon Roof. 

and F represent the wall plate line, F G being the 
run of common rafter, G H the rise and F H the 
length of common rafter. Next swing the common 
rafter round to a perpendicular position, as F I. Set 
off half the side of the octagon A J and square up the 
length of the common rafter J K. Draw K I for the 
ridge line and K A for the hip. Space and draw the 
jacks perpendicularly from A J to the hip, as shown. 
The bevel at R is the bevel across the back and the 
plumb cut is the same as that of the common rafter, 
shown at H. The length and bevels will be the same 
on each side of the octagon, hence further explana- 
tion of Fig. 86 is unnecessary. 



THE builders" GUIDE. 



125 



The cuts of jacks in an octagon, hexagon or a 
polygon of any description may be found in the fol- 
lowing manner. Referring to Fig. 87, let A B rep- 
resent the length of the side, and from the center set 
off the length of the common rafter C D. Draw A D 
and B D for the length and position of hips. Space 
the jacks on the line A B and draw perpendicular to 
the hips, as shown, which will give their lengths. A 
bevel set in the angle at E will give the bevel across 
the back, the down bevel being the same as that of 
the common rafter. Fig. 87 refers only to the lengths 
and bevels of the jacks, but the lengths and cuts of all 
the rafters in any regular polygon may be found in 
the following manner: Referring now to Fig. 88, let 
A B C D and E represent four 
sides of an octagon. Set off the 
center of one side, as B F, and 
square into the center G F, which 
is the run of the common rafter. 
Square up the rise G H and 
draw F H for the length of the 
common rafter. The bevel at H 
is the top bevel and at F the 
bottom bevel. G E being the run 
of the hip, square up the rise G 
1 and draw E I for length of 
hip rafter. The bevel at I is the 
top bevel and at E the bottom 
bevel. From the center of C D 
set off the length of common rafter J K, which should 
be the same length as F H. Draw K C and K D for 
the position of the hip rafters for finding the lengths 




Fig. 87.— Showing How 
to Find ttie Lengths 
and Bevels of Jack 
Rafters in an Octa- 
gon, Hexagon or 
Polygon. 



126 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



and bevels of the jacks. Space the jacks on the line 
C D and draw perpendicular to the hips, as shown, 
which will give the lengths. The bevel shown at L is 
the bevel across the back, the down bevel being the 
same as that of the common rafter. 

JOINING GABLES DIAGONALLY. 

One of the most difficult problems in roof framing 
with which the mechanic has to contend — namely, that 
of joining a gable cornerways or diagonally to another 
gable — is illustrated in Fig. 89. This method is fre- 
quently adopted in city residences to produce diver- 
sity in design. Let A B C D E F G represent the 
wall plate lines in the plan, F H the run of the com- 
mon rafter on the main part, H I the rise and F I 
the length of the common rafter. Transfer F I to 

F J and draw J K, 
which represents 
the main ridge. 
From the center of 
the corner gable 
square up the rise 
of the common 
rafter L M, and 
draw A M for 
length of common 
rafter on the cor- 
ner gable. From 
C square up to N 
what the main 
common rafter 
rises in the part of 
Then L N will be the 




Fig. 88. — Diagram Illustrating the Method 
of Obtaining the Lengths and Cuts of 
all the Rafters in any Regular Polygon. 



its run represented by L C. 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



127 



length of main common rafter up to the point where 
the left valley starts. Transfer L N to L O, which 
is the starting point of the left valley. From O set off 
O P, which should be the length of the dotted line 
L G and of the common rafter A M. Square up G R, 
which should be the same as L O. From R set off the 




Framing Gables Which Join Diagonally. 



rise of the common rafter on the corner gable to S, 
which is the same as L M. 

From S square up the length of the common rafter 
to T, which is the same distance as A M. Connect 
T with O for the length and position of the left valley. 
Connect T with P for the length and position of the 
right valley, which runs from the ridge of the corner 
gable to the plate of the corner gable. Draw P G for 
the length and position of the right valley, which runs 



128 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



from the plate of the corner gable to the main plate. 
Space the jacks on the main ridge and draw perpen- 
dicular lines as shown. The jacks from K J to valley 
O T are the jacks in the main roof. The jacks from 
O S to the valley O T are the jacks on the left side of 
the corner gable. The valley T P on the right side 
of corner gable is but little longer than the common 
rafter on corner gable, and runs so nearly straight 
with the rafters on the main roof that the jacks on this 
side are seldom needed in the corner gable ; but in case 
they are, space them between S P and draw to the 
valley T P, which will give the length and bevel, as 
K 




Fig. 90.- 



-Diagram Showing Starting Point of Valley Between 
Gables Joining Diagonally. 



shown. Draw the jacks from the valley G P to the 
main plate, which will give the length and cut of the 
same. The down bevel of the jacks will be the same 
as that of the common rafter. 

It is natural for one to think the valley rafter O T 
should start from the point C, but such is not the 
case, as will be plainly seen by referring to Fig. 90, 
which shows that the valley starts at O on the line 
of the main common rafter, and comes far above the 
point C, for C O is the same as C N in Fig. 89. 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 1 29 

CURVED OR MOLDED ROOFS. 

Having presented to the reader a practical system 
for almost every conceivable form of straight work in 
roof framing, the next step will be to show an easy 




Fig. 91. — Conical Tower Roof witti Rafters Concave in Form. 

system of framing curved roofs, or molded roofs, as they 
are sometimes called. Curved roofs usually take the 
form of concave, convex or ogee. An ogee is a form 
having a double curve, and is both concave and con- 
vex. Fig. 91 shows a conical tower roof, the rafters 
being of the concave form. Fig. 92 shows a convex 
mansard roof. Fig. 93 shows an ogee veranda roof. 



I30 



THE builders' GUIDE. 



These are the principal forms of curved or molded 
rafters, though they are variously combined and ap- 
plied. The lengths, bevels and shapes are, however, 
developed in much the same manner, and when once it 




Fig. 92. — A Convex Mansard Roof. 

is understood how to develop the shape in one form 
any shape desired can be readily worked by the 
same method. The plan, Fig. 94, represents the corner 
portion of a roof with ogee rafters. The lines A B 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



131 



and B C represent the wall plates and D E and D F 
the deck plates. A D is the run of common rafter, 
D E the rise, and A E the length of common rafter on 
the working line. This line governs the pitch of roof 
and the bevels. E is the down bevel at the top and 
A the bottom bevel. Connect B D for the run of 
the hip, square up the rise D G, and connect B G 
for the length and working line of hip rafter. G is 
the down bevel at the top and B the bottom bevel. 




Fig. 93. — An Ogee Veranda Roof. 



To lay out the curved rafter, referring now to Fig. 
95, set off the run A D, the rise D E, the length and 
work line A E. Draw the desired curves, as shown. 
H I indicates the bottom edge of the rafter, and J H 
shows the width of lumber necessary for making the 
curved rafter. To economize in the width of lumber, 
the convex portion above the work line may be 
worked out separately and nailed on. As a guide in 
laying out the corresponding curves in the hip rafter 



132 



THE builders' GUIDE. 



divide the length of the common rafter on the work 
Hne into any number of equal spaces, as i, 2, 3, &c. 
From these points on the work line plumb up or 
down, as the case may be, to the curve line of the 
rafter. 

Now we are ready to develop the shape of the hip. 




Fig. 94. — Plan of Corner of a Roof with Ogee Rafters. 



Referring to Fig. 96, set off the run B D, the rise 
D G, and connect B G for the length and work line 
of the hip. Divide the work line of the hip into the 
same number of equal spaces as numbered on the 
work line of the common rafter i, 2, 3, etc., and 
plumb up or down, as the case may be, the same dis- 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



^ss 



tances as shown on the common rafter. Then a line 
traced from B through these points to G will be the 
profile of the hip rafter. Fig. 97 represents the cor- 
ner portion of a roof having two pitches. In this 
the angle and run of the hip are changed, without 
changing the method of finding the profiles of the 
rafters. Take the ^run, rise and length of common 
rafter on one side of the hip, and draw the desired 
shape. Then find the profile of the common rafter 
on the opposite side of the hip by dividing the work 
line into the same number of spaces and proceeding 
as before. The run of the hip being changed, we 
obtain a different length for the work line. When 
this is divided into the same number of equal spaces 
as were the common rafters, and the curved lines 
traced through the 
points, we obtain the 
shape of hip which 
will correspond to the 
profiles of the com- 
mon rafters from 
either side. In roofs 
of two pitches it is 
evident that there 
must be two sets and 
two bevels of com- 
mon and jack rafters. 

Now in curved roofs Fig. 95.— Laying Out a Curved Rafter. 

the lengths and bev- 
els may be found by following the work lines of the 
common rafters, which may be drawn straight, as has 
been shown in Fig. 95. 




134 



THE builders' GUIDE. 



The lengths and bevels of the jacks for the dif- 
ferent pitches may be found as shown in Figs. 62, 63 
or 64. Again, it is evident that a jack rafter must be 
the same shape as the common rafter on the same 
side of roof from the bottom, or plate, up to the 
point where it joins the hip. Hence its length may 
be found in the following manner by measuring on 
the work line of the common rafter. 

Referring now to Fig. 98, A D is the run of the 




Fis- 96. — Developing tlie Shape of the Hips. 

common rafter, D E the rise and A E the length and 
work line. To find the length of jack, set off the run 
of jack A B and square up the rise B C to the work 
line of the common rafter; then A C is the length of 
jack on the work line. This method is very simple, 
yet as it is a new and novel way of finding the length 
of jack rafters it will be well to point out a common 
mistake which the inexperienced might chance to 
make. Bear in mind that A E is the length of com- 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



135 



mon rafter. B C is not the length of jack, as some 
might suppose, but the rise of jack; A C is the length 
of jack. The down bevel is the same as that of the 
common rafter. To find the bevel across the back, 
set off from D the length of common rafter to F, 
and connect F with A, which shows the work line of, 
the hip. Now continue the line B C to the work line 
of the hip, and the bevel at G will be the bevel across 




B C 

Fig. 97. — Plan of Corner Portion of a Roof Having Two Pitches. 

the top of jack. B G is also the length of jack, and 
will be found to be the same as A C. 

When the bevel of the jacks is known all that is 
necessary is to square up the rise of each jack from 
the base line of common rafter A D to the work line 
A E and take the length from A to the point where the 



13^ 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



rise of each jack joins the work line of common rafter, 
as shown. Many lines and much time may be saved 
in finding the bevels of jack rafters on roofs of differ- 
ent pitches by using the plan shown in Fig. 60, which 
is the simplest and easiest of all to remember and is 
applicable to roofs of any pitch. 

ROOF FRAMING BY THE STEEL SQUARE. 

The lengths and cuts of any rafter, hip, valley or 
jack, on roofs of any pitch may be easily found by a 
proper application of the steel square and 2-foot rule. 
There are a few simple facts which^ if remembered, 
will serve to make hip and valley roof framing so 
plain and easily understood that no one need have 
any difficulty in finding 
the length and cut of any 
rafter. The pitch of a 
roof is always designated 
by the number of inches 
it rises to the foot run, 
hence the cut of a com- 
mon rafter is always 12 
for the bottom cut and 
for the top cut is the rise 
of the roof to the foot. 
The cut of a correspond- 
ing hip or valley of equal 
pitch is always 17 for the 
bottom cut and for the 
top cut the rise of the 
common rafter to the 
foot. Thus if 12 and 8 
cut the common rafter, 17 




Fig. 98. — Finding Lengths of Jacls 
Rafters. 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE, 



137 



and 8 will cut the hip or valley. The top bevel of a 
jack rafter is always 12 on the tongue of a square and 
the length of the common rafter for a foot run on 
the blade. The blade gives the cut. In other words, 
the run of the common rafter on the tongue and the 
length on the blade will always give the top bevel of 
jack rafters on roofs of equal pitch. The plumb cut 
or down bevel of a jack is always the same as that of 
the common rafter. 

Referring now to Fig. 99, to find the length of a 




Fig. 99.- 



-Finding Length of a Common Rafter by Means of the 
Steel Square. 



common rafter take the run on the blade of a square 
and the rise on the tongue, measure across, and we 
have the length. For example, if the run of a rafter 
is 12 feet and the rise 8 feet, take 12 inches on the 
blade and 8 inches on the tongue and measure across, 
which will give the length, 14 7-16 inches, equal to 14 
feet 5^ inches, 12 and 8 giving the cuts. The blade 
gives the bottom cut and the tongue the top cut. To 
find the length of a corresponding hip or valley, take 
the run of the common rafter on both blade and 
tongue and measure across, which will give the run 



^ss 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



of hip or valley, which is 17 inches. To avoid con- 
fusion by cross lines, refer now to Fig. 100. Take 17 
inches on the blade and the rise, 8 inches, on the 
tongue and measure across, which gives the length of 
hip or valley 18 13-16 inches, equal to 18 feet 9^ 
inches, 17 and 8 giving the cuts. The blade gives the 
bottom cut and the tongue the top cut. To find the 
bevel across the top of jacks, take the length of com- 
mon rafter, 14 7-16 inches, on the blade and the run, 
12 inches, on the tongue, and the distance across also 




Fig. 100. — Finding Length of Hip or Valley Rafter. 

represents the length of hip or valley. This merely 
changes the position of hip or valley in order to ob- 
tain the bevel across the top of jacks, which is 12 on 
the tongue and 14 7-16 on the blade. The blade gives 
the cut. The plumb cut or down bevel is the same as 
that of the common rafter. 

The lengths of the jacks may be obtained in the 
following manner : Take the run of common rafter 
on the blade, 12 inches, and the length, 14 7-16 inches, 
on the tongue, and lay a straight edge across, as shown 
in Fig. loi. Space the jacks on the blade of the 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



139 



square, which represents the run of common rafter, 
and measure perpendicularly from the tongue to the 
straight edge on the line of each jack for their length. 
The lengths of hips, valleys and jacks on roofs of 
unequal pitches may be found in the same manner 
by taking figures on the blade and tongue of a square 
which will represent the different pitches. For ex- 
ample, suppose a roof hips 9 feet on the right side 
of the hip and 13 feet on the left and has a rise of 8 
feet, what will be the lengths and bevels of the rafters? 




Fig. 101. — Obtaining the Lengths of Jack Rafters witli the 
Steel Square. 



Referring to Fig. 102, take 13 inches on the blade of 
a square and 8 inches on the tongue and measure 
across. This gives 15^:4 inches, equal to 15 feet 3 
inches, which is the length of the common rafter on 
the left side of hip. Now, 13 inches on the blade and 
8 inches on the tongue give the cuts, the tongue giving 
the top cut and the blade the bottom cut fitting the 
plate. Now take the length of common rafter on the 
left side, 15)4 inches, on the blade, and the run of the 
common rafter on the right side of hip, 9 inches, on 



I40 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



the tongue and the blade will give the cut across the 
back of the jack rafters on the left side of the hip. 
The lengths of the jacks may be found in the follow- 
ing manner: Divide the length of common rafter by 
the number of spaces for jacks. This will give the 
length of the shortest jack, and the second will be twice 
that length, the third three times, and so on till the 
required number are found. Each side of the hip may 
be worked in the same manner till all the different 




■I M I I I I M kfj^ I I I I I i-in 



^i; 



Fig. 102. — Finding Lengths and Bevels of 
Rafters on Roofs of Unequal Pitches. 

lengths and cuts are found. The whole thing boiled 
down results in a few simple facts: i, That the run of 
the common rafter on the tongue of a square and the 
length of the common rafter on the blade will always 
give the bevel across the back of a jack rafter on roofs 
of equal pitch; 2, if the roofs are of different pitches 
the length of the common rafter on the blade and the 
run of the common rafter on the opposite side of the 
hip or valley on the tongue will give the cut of the 
jack on the side of the roof from which the length of 
the common rafter was taken. The blade gives the 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



141 



cut. Hence the bevels of jack rafters on roofs of dif- 
ferent pitches may be found as easily as on roofs of 
equal pitch. 

The next step will be to show a simple plan for ob- 
taining the length and cuts of the hip rafter by means 
of the square and 2-foot rule. As the run of common 
rafter on the left side of hip is 13 inches and on the 
right side 9 inches, we will take figures on the blade 
and tongue of a square which will represent the runs 
of the common rafters. Referring to Fig. 103, take 




Fig. 103. — Obtaining Lengtli and Cuts of Hip Rafter by Means 
of Steel Square and Two-Foot Rule. 

13 inches on the blade and 9 inches on the tongue 
and measure across and we have 15 10-12 inches, 
equal to 15 feet 10 inches, the run of the hip rafter. 
Now take the run of the hip, 15 10-12 inches, on the 
blade and the rise of the roof, 8 inches, on the tongue, 
and measure across and we have the length of the 
hip rafter, 17^ inches, equal to 17 feet 9 inches. Now, 
8 inches on the tongue and 15 10-12 on the blade will 
give the cuts. The tongue gives the down bevel at 
the top and the blade the bottom cut fitting the plate. 



142 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



ROOF FRAMING WITHOUT DRAWINGS. 

The system to which we shall now refer is one by 
which the lengths of common rafters, hips, valleys 
and jacks, with all their different bevels, on roofs of 
equal pitch, may be easily found without the aid of 
drawings. It is so simple that any one can under- 
stand it and find the lengths and cuts in less time 
than it takes to describe the operation. The system 
consists of a table, given below, from which the 
lengths and cuts of any rafter may be determined ?<■ 

once: 

Rafter TaUe. 



1 


2 


3 


4 


5 


6 




u 






>> 


» 


M 


«:« 


.^1 


S 


-3^2 


g 


1 


2 o 


° 5 


jl" 

5 


2 


2 
1 


Inches. 


Feet. 


Feet. 


Inches. 


Inches. 


Inches. 


6 


1.12 


1.50 


13 and 6 


17 and 6 


131^ and 13 


7 


1.16 


1.53 


12 and 7 


17 and 7 


135^ and 12 


8 


1.20 


1.56 


12 and 8 


17 and 8 


U% and 12 


9 


1.25 


1.60 


12 and 9 


17 and 9 


15 and 12 


10 


] 30 


1.64 


13 and 10 


17 and 10 


155/ and 12 


13 


1.42 


1.73 


12 and 12 


17 and 12 


17 and 12 


15 


1.60 


1.88 


12 and 15 


17 and 15 


19^ and 13 


18 


1.80 


2 07 


12 and 18 


17 and 18 


215^^ and 12 



Column I shows the pitch of roofs in the number 
of inches rise to the foot run. Column 2 shows the 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. I43 

length of common rafter to a foot run. Column 3 
shows the length of a hip or valley corresponding to 
a foot run of the common rafter. Column 4 shows 
the figures to take on the square for the top and bot- 
tom cuts of the common rafter — namely, 12 for the 
bottom cut, and for the top cut the number of inches 
the common rafter rises to the foot run. Column 5 
shows what figures to take on the square for the 
top and bottom cuts of a corresponding hip or valley, 
which is always 17 for the bottom cut and the num- 
ber of inches the common rafter rises to the foot run 
for the top cut. Column 6 shows what figures to take 
on the square for the top bevel of the jack rafters, 
which is always 12 on the tongue of a square and the 
length of the common rafter for a foot run on the 
blade. The blade gives the cut. The plumb cut or 
down bevel is always the same as that of the common 
rafter. 

To avoid a complication of fractions the figures 
given in columns 2 and 3 are in feet and decimals. 
To find the length of common rafters, hips, valleys 
and jacks it is only necessary to multiply the run by 
the figures given corresponding to the pitch. 

We will now give a practical example showing 
how to find the lengths of rafters by means of the 
table. 

Example. — What will be the length of rafters on a 
building 16 feet wide, with roof of 7 inches pitch, 
hipped to the center and rafters placed 16 inches from 
centers ? 

Analysis. — The run of the common rafter is one- 
half the width of the building, which is 8 feet. Mul- 



144 THE builders' GUIDE. 

tiplying the run by the length of rafter for i foot, 
7-inch pitch, column 2 of the table, and pointing off 
the product as in multiplication of decimals, we have 
the length of rafter in feet and a decimal of a foot. 
The decimal must be multiplied by 12 to reduce it to 
inches. 

Operation. — 1.16 X 8 = 9.28 feet. 0.28 X 12 = 3.36 
inches. Thus the length of the common rafter is 9 
feet 3.36 inches. The 0.36 is a decimal of an inch, and 
if great accuracy is desired it may be called ^ inch. 
The table is made to give the length in full, so that 
very slight decimals may be disregarded altogether. 
The corresponding hip or valley may be found as fol- 
lows : 1.53 X 8 = 12.24 feet. 0.24 X 12 = 2.88 inches. 
The decimal 0.88 may be called J/g inch. Thus the 
length of the hip would be 12 feet 2]4, inches. 

If the rafters are placed 16 inches from centers the 
run of the first jack will be 16 inches. Taking the 
same figures in the table as those to find the common 
rafter and multiplying by 16 inches, we have as fol- 
lows: 

1. 16 X 16= 18.56 

The decimal 0.56 may be called ^ inch. Thus the 
length of the first jack would be 18^ inches, the sec- 
ond twice that, the third three times, and so on till 
the required number is found. In complicated roofs 
the table may be used to great advantage in connec- 
tion with the plan. When used in this way only one 
diagram showing the runs of the rafters is needed, as 
the lengths of all the rafters may be very quickly 
figured and set down on the plan and the required 
bevels may be taken from the table. Fig. 104 shows 



THE builders' GUIDE. 



145 



the plan of a roof i6 x 24 feet, with wing 12 x 8 feet. 
Roof to be 8 inches to the foot pitch and rafters placed 
2 feet from centers. The lengths of rafters in this 
plan figured by the table are as follows : 
For the common rafter, main part, 
1.20 X 8 = 9.60 feet. 0.60 X 12 = 7.20 inches. 
Length of common rafter is therefore 9 feet 7 inches. 




Fig. 104. — Showing How a Plan of a Roof Can Be Used lu 
Connection with Rafter Table. 

For the hip rafter, main part, 

1.56 X 8 = 12.48. 0.48 X 12 = 5.76 inches. 

The length of hip rafter is therefore 12 feet 5^ inches. 

For the first jack, main part, 

1.20 X 2 = 2.40 feet. 0.40 X 12 = 4.80 inches. 

The length of the first jack is 2 feet 4% inches; the 



14^ THE builders" GUIDE. 

length of the second jack is 4 feet 9^ inches, and the 
length of the third jack is 7 feet 2}^ inches. 

For the hip rafter on the wing, 

1.56 X 6 =: 9.36 feet. 0.36 X 12 = 4.32 inches. 
The length of hip rafter is therefore 9 feet 4%. inches 

Thus we have computed the different lengths of all 
the rafters necessary to figure in the plan, as all raft- 
ers of the same run will be the same length, these 
being readily seen in the plan. As the latter shows 
the lengths of the principal different rafters it is un- 
necessary to represent all those which are of the same 
length, although it is a good plan in actual practice. 
By this method one can see at a glance just where 
every rafter belongs, as well as noting instantly all 
of the same length. It is usually neecessary to figure 
the lengths of only a few, as will be seen by referring 
to the plan. The valley rafter on the left side of the 
wing should be of the same length as the main hip ; 
then it will reach to the main ridge, the only place of 
support in a self supporting roof. The jacks which 
cut from hip to valley on this side will each be the 
same length, which is 4 feet gj4 inches, the length of 
the second jack, as shown in the plan. The valley on 
the right side of the wing will be the same length as 
the hip on the end of the wing. The common rafter 
on the wing will be the same length as the third jack 
on the main part. It is easy to see that the length of 
any rafter on roofs of equal pitch may be readily found 
by this method. 

LAYING OUT RAFTERS. 

In laying out rafters it is very important to set off 
the length on the work line, as deviations from this 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



147 



rule will often lead to mistakes. The lines indicat- 
ing the run and rise of a rafter are easily traced, but 
the work line for the length of a rafter is sometimes 
lost to sight, particularly in cutting jack rafters. The 
f ramer must never lose the work line in cutting a 
rafter; if he does, he is like a mariner at sea without 
a compass or a ship without a rudder. The work line 




Fig. 105.- 



-Diagram Showing Importance of Work Line in 
Laying Out Rafters. 



is an important part in obtaining the lengths of rafters, 
as will be shown. 

In roofs which have a projection of the rafter for 
the cornice the back of the rafter rises above the level 
of the plate, whatever thickness may be allowed on 
the rafter for the support of the cornice. Referring 
to Fig. 105, A B represents the run of a common 
rafter, B C the rise and A C the length and work line. 
Projections for the cornice must be added from the 
corner of the plate at A. Now suppose we square up 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



from the corner of the plate at A to D, the back of 
the rafter, and measure the length to E the same as 
on the line A C. Now if we make the plumb cut at E, 
as shown by the dotted line, we find our rafter too 
short, as is plainly shown in the diagram. Thus it 
will be seen that the work line is an essential point in 
laying out rafters. 

We will now trace the work line in a jack rafter 
from the plate to the top bevel, as this is the place 
many mechanics are at a loss as to the proper point 
to which to measure. 

Referring to Fig. 106, we can easily trace the work 
line and the lines forming the cut of the jack rafter. 
The work line is 
represented by A 
C, the plumb line 
or down bevel by 
D B', and is al- 
ways the same as 
the down bevel 
of the common 
rafter. To find 
the bevel across 
the back of the 
rafter draw an- 
other plumb line 
the thickness of 
the rafter from 
the cutting line 

and measured square from it, as C E. Square across 
the back of the rafter to F ; connect F with D, and 
the lines to which to cut are F D B'. The proper point 




Fig. 106. — Diagram Showing Work Line in a 
Jack Rafter. 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. I49 

to which to measure on the Hne A C is from A to the 
scratch mark half way between the two plumb lines, 
this being the center of the rafter in thickness. In 
actual practice this little point need not be considered, 
and for convenience in measuring the length may be 
taken from A to C. So slight a deviation in the true 
length of a jack rafter does not cut any figure in fram- 
ing or ever appear noticeable, from the fact that jack 
rafters can be moved forward or backward a little on 
the plate and hip and if they are all framed by the 
same rule will be of uniform distance apart. 

We are instructed by some to deduct half the thick- 
ness of the hip or valley rafter in setting ofT the length 
of jacks. This is a point which may be disregarded, 
especially when hip and valley rafters are only 2 inches 
thick. It is evident that if we lay out a jack rafter 
setting off the length on the side which has the long 
corner of the bevel, it will be a little more than half the 
thickness of the rafter short when the bevel is cut. 

Therefore, if jacks are cut according to the work 
line in Fig. 106 they will be near enough for all 
practical purposes in the usual order of building and 
without making any deduction in length for the thick- 
ness of hip and valley rafters. When roofs have a 
ridge pole deduct half its thickness from the length 
of the common rafter. Aside from this, it is seldom 
necessary to make any reduction in the length of raft- 
ers, as shown on the work lines in the plans. 

RAISING RAFTERS. 

It is as important to know how to properly put up 
the frame work of a roof as it is to know how to lay 



150 THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 

it off correctly. First see that the plates are straight 
and the angles true, then set up the deck or ridge on 
stanchions the proper hight; next put up all the com- 
mon rafters which will not interfere with hips and 
valleys. Many mechanics advocate raising the hips 
and valleys first, but practical experience will prove 
that this is a great mistake. Put up first all the com- 
mon rafters that can be raised conveniently. There is 
always a ready way to plumb a pair of common rafters, 
and if the common rafters are plumb they will square 
up the roof ready for hips and valleys, which, being 
on an angle with the plates, are often very bothersome 
to set to the required angle. They are also^ trouble- 
some to plumb up, especially when they are the first 
rafters raised. By raising the common rafters first 
the deck or ridge is brought into the proper position 
for the hips and valleys and the trouble of squaring 
and plumbing the hips and valleys is much less. After 
raising the hips and valleys stay them straight and 
finally put in the jacks, being careful not to spring the 
hips and valleys when nailing the jacks. 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



151 



MITERINQ PLANCEERS, MOLDINGS, ETC. 

As the art of making a common miter joint is uni- 
versally understood hf all mechanics, an explanation 
of the common miter is unnecessary. We will, there- 
fore, explain the methods of making some of the 
most complicated and difficult miters which fre- 
quently come up in the actual practice of carpentry. 
Fig. 107 shows the elevation of a roof having three 
gables, and it is required to miter the level planceer 

A B with the gable 
planceer B C. To 
many this seems like 
a difficult problem ; 
yet if one will con- 
sider the roof plan 
for a moment he will 
see that the proper 
figures on the square 
to make the required 
miter may be taken directly from the roof plan, which 
gives the bevels for cutting the rafters. 

To cut the bevel on the planceer A B use the same 
figures on the square that make the bevel across the 
top of jacks, but reverse the cut. Thus, if 17 on 
blade and 12 on tongue cuts the jack rafters, the 
blade gives the cut of the jack and the tongue the 
miter line for the planceer. The reason for reversing 
the cut is because the planceer A B runs in a direc- 
tion exactly opposite the rafters. 




A B D 

Fig. 107. — Elevation of Roof Having 
Three Gables. 



152 THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 

The same figures will also miter the sheeting in 
the valley. Now, the planceer B C which goes up the 
gable runs parallel with the rafters, hence the same 
figures which give the cut for the jacks will give the 
cut for this, which, in the present case, are 17 on the 
blade and 12 on the tongue, the blade giving the 
cut. Or, referring to Fig. 107, B G and D G show the 
position and length of valley rafters, and the bevel 
at B is the bevel for cutting the planceer A B, while 
that at J, which is the bevel for jack rafter, is the 
bevel for cutting the planceer B C, which goes up 
the gable. The junction of the two 
gable planceers C D and E D at D 
forms another kind of miter joint. 
In this the planceer on both gables 
cuts the same, and the cut is the 
same as the bevel which cuts the 
jacks, shown at D. This bevel is c ■ 
also the same as the one shown at J. Fig. 108.— Diagram 

The pjanceers A B and B C must f/JISe pfa™? 
necessarily be of different widths, 
the glable planceer being the narrower. To find 
the width the gable planceer must be to match 
the level planceer, draw the width of level plan- 
ceer A B, representing the pitch of roof, as 
shown in Fig. 108. Square down from A to C, the 
rise of planceer, and B C will be the width of gable 
plancer corresponding to A B. To obtain the miter 
line for mitering the fascia and crown molding at 
i>, draw two parallel level lines and two parallel 
pitch lines of the common rafter, keeping both sets 
of lines the same distance apart, as shown in Fig. 




THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 1 53 

109. Connect the opposite angles where the lines 
cross each other, as shown by A B, and this will give 
the required miter. The figures for this may be found 
by placing the blade of the square on the line A C 
and tongue on A B. The tongue gives the cut. If 
the fascia stands square with the rafters on the line 
A B, Fig. 107, then a square miter will make the 
joint which connects the level fascia A B with the 
gable fascia A F. But now suppose the fascia on 
line A B stands plumb, as it frequently does, and 
should on a roof of this kind, then a different cut is 
required. In this case cut the level fascia on a 

square miter, but for 
the gable fascia cut 
across the edge of 
the board on the 
same bevel as for a 
jack, and cut the 
plumb line the same 
C 7*^ /k as that of the corn- 

Fig. 109. — Method of Obtaining Miter mon rafter. 
Line for Fascia and Crown Molding. Having S h O W n 

how to properly miter the planceer and fascia, we 
will next take the crown molding. The miter for 
moldings cannot be accurately laid off from the square 
because it cannot be properly applied to them; hence 
the best way to miter moldings is by means of the 
miter box. As almost every one knows how to make 
the common miter box I will not go into the details 
of manufacturing it, but explain the methods of mak- 
ing cuts in it for the purpose of mitering moldings 




154 



THE BUILDERS^ GUIDE. 



for some of the difficult joints which frequently come 
up in actual practice. 

To miter the molding in the valley at D, Fig. 107, 
which is the junction of two gables, take for the cut 
down the sides of the box the plumb cut of the com- 
mon rafter, which in this case I will suppose to be one- 
half pitch, which is in accordance with the diagrams. 
For the cut across the top of box use the same bevel 
as for cutting the jacks, which is shown at J. Fig. no 
shows the manner of applying the square to the box 
for laying off the cuts. It will be necessary to put two 




Fig. 110. 



-Manner of Applying the Square to the Miter Box for 
Laying Off the Cuts. 



cuts in the box, right and left, as shown. In connec- 
tion with this kind of a box it is more convenient to 
make it with only one side, as shown in Fig. in. The 
side, however, should be made of a thick piece of lum- 
ber, so that it will form a good guide for the saw. As 
these miter boxes are used only for a special purpose 
no one wants to spend very much time making them, 
therefore the box with one side is recommended to 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 155 

answer the purpose, and it Is the easiest to make. The 
secret of a good miter box hes in having the sides 
stand square with the bottom and of the same hight 
from end to end. If these two points are carefully 
observed and the cuts made true good results will 
follow, no matter how rough the box may be in ap- 
pearance. 

To miter the level molding at A, in Fig. 107, with 
the gable molding A F, cut the level molding A B in 
a common miter box, using the square miter, and cut 
the gable molding A F in the box as described in 
connection with Fig. no. By this method a fair job 




Fig. 111. — Miter Box with One Side. 

can be done, but the moldings will not member exactly. 
To make a perfect joint the gable molding requires a 
slightly different profile. 

Fig. 112 shows the elevation plan of a hip and valley 
roof drawn to the scale of a third pitch, in which is 
shown another form of miter joints. A B is the length 
and position of left end hip rafter, C D the length of 
common rafter, C E the length and position of left 
valley rafter, F G the length and position of left hip 
on front end, and F H the length of common rafter. 



iS6 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



A B, C E and F G show the miter Hnes of hips and 
valleys. There is nothing peculiar or difficult about 
the joints at A, C and F except the mitering of the 
fascia and crown molding on a square cornice, which 
means that the ends of the rafter are cut square and 
that the fascia and crown molding stand square with 
' the roof instead of plumb. To miter the sheeting or 
the planceer on the hips or in the valley, take the 
length of common rafter C D on the blade and the 




F 1 

Fig. 112. — Hip and Valley Roof of One-Third Pitch. 

run of common rafter D E on the tongue. The figures 
for a third pitch are 14^ inches on bkde and 12 inches 
on tongue, the tongue giving the cut, or the bevel 
may be taken at C, as shown in the diagram. There 
is also a bevel across the edge of the board, which may 
be found in the following manner: Take the length 
of common rafter F H on the blade and the rise of 
common rafter I H on the tongue. The figures for a 
third pitch are 145^ inches on blade and 8 inches on 
tongue, the tongue giving the cut, or the bevel may 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. I57 

be found as follows: Square down on the line F H 
the rise of common rafter H J and connect J F. The 
bevel at J will be the bevel for the edge of the board. 

There is practically noi difference between a hip 
and valley cut. The bevel on the edge of board in the 
valley and on the hip is the same, it being only neces- 
sary to reverse the bevel, as the long point of bevel 
on hip will be on the face side of board and in the 
valley it will be on the back side. 

To miter the fascia at A, C or F when it stands 
square with the roof proceed as follows : For the 
bevel across the edge of board take the length of the 
common rafter on the blade and the run on the tongue, 
when the tongue will give the cut. Figures on the 
square are the same as for cutting the face side of 
sheeting or planceer, or the bevel may be taken, as 
shown at C. For the cut down the side of fascia 
take the length of the common rafter on the blade 
and the rise of common rafter on tongue, and the 
tongue will give the cut, or take the bevel shown at J. 

To make the cut on a miter box for mitering the 
molding on the hips and valleys take the bevel at C 
for the cut across the top of box, which is 14/4 inches, 
on blade and 12 inches on tongue. The tongue gives 
the cut. For the cut down the side of box take the 
bevel at J, which is 14^^ inches, on the blade and 8 
inches on the tongue. The tongue gives the cut. The 
facts when condensed are as follows : 

Length of common rafter, 14^ inches, on blade 
and run of common rafter, 12 inches, on tongue gives 
cut for face of planceer or sheeting. The tongue gives 
the cut. 



iS8 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 



Length of common rafter, 14^ inches, on blade 
and rise of common rafter, 8 inches, on tongue gives 
cut for edge of planceer or sheeting. The tongue 
gives the cut. 

Length of common rafter, 14^ inches, on blade 
and run of common rafter, 12 inches, on tongue gives 
cut for edge of fascia. The tongue gives the cut. 

Length of common rafter, 14^ inches, on blade 




E I 

Fig. 113. — Plan of Valley in a Roof of Two Pitches. 

and rise of common rafter, 8 inches, on tongue gives 
cut for side of fascia. The tongue gives the cut. 

MITERING ROOF BOARDS AND PLANCEERS. 

To miter planceers and roof boards in valleys of 
two pitches it is only necessary to take the figures 
on the square which cut the bevels across the top of 
the jacks on the two pitches and reverse the cut, as 



THE BUILDERS GUIDE. 159 

the roof boards and plancers run in an opposite direc- 
tion to the jacks. 

The bevels may be taken from any plan showing 
the two pitches and cuts of jacks. Fig. 113 repre- 
sents the plan of a valley in a roof of two pitches. 
The dotted lines D B and B F are the lines plumb 
under the ridge. A B shows the run of the valley, 
C D the length of common rafter on left gable, and 
E F the length of common rafter on front gable. 
Transfer the length of common rafter C D to C G 
and draw the ridge line G H, which extends to the 
center of front gable. Transfer the length of com- 
mon rafter E F to E I and draw the ridge line I J, 
which extends to the center of left gable. Connect 
A H and A J, which shows the position of valley for 
finding the bevels of the jacks, roof boards and plan- 
ceers on both sides of the hip. The bevels at K and 
L are the jack rafter bevels. The bevels at M and N 
are the bevels for mitering the roof boards or plan- 
ceers. The bevels at H and J are also the same as M 
and N, and show very plainly that they are the re- 
verse of the jack rafter bevels. It is only necessary 
to have the planceers of a different width in order to 
have them member exactly, as will be seen by the 
boards in the diagram. If this plan is followed there 
will be no twisting of planceers in cornicing when 
joining roofs of different pitches. 

BEVEL FOR HIP OR VALLEY. 

A question in roof framing which sometimes comes 
up in actual practice is how to cut the bevel on the 
lower end of a hip or valley corresponding to a square 



l6o THE builders' GUIDE. 

cut of the common rafter. This is only used in cut- 
ting the ends of hip and valley rafters preparatory 
to nailing on the fascia and crown molding. Every 
carpenter knows that a square cut on a hip or valley 
will not correspond with a square cut on the common 
rafter. 
This cut may be obtained in the following manner; 




Fig. 114. — Manner of Applying the Steel Square to Obtain Bevel 
for Hip or Valley Rafter. 

Take 17 inches on the blade of a square and one-half 
the rise of the common rafter to a foot run on the 
tongue, and the tongue gives the cut. 

For example, suppose I have a roof of one-third 
pitch. This being a rise of 8 inches to the foot run, 8 
and 12 will make the common rafter cuts and 17 and 
4 the cut on the end of the hip or valley correspond- 
ing to a square cut of the common rafter. Fig. 114 
shows the manner of applying the square for the pur- 
pose of obtaining the bevel on the lower end of a hip 
or valley rafter. 



INDEX 

An Important Point in Roof Framing 122 

Area of a Gable, Finding the 25 

Area of a Triangle, Finding the 26 

Art of Roof Framing 87 

Backing Hip Rafters go 

Base, Mitering and Coping 75 

Bathrooms „ 57 

Bay Windows, To Prevent Leaks in. . . , 84 

Bevel for Hip or Valley 159 

Bevel of Jack Rafters 89 

Binding Sliding Doors 78 

Blocks, Corner , 75 

Building Out of Square, Hips on End of 104 

Carpentry Work, Estimating Labor for 43 

Casings, Estimating Corner 20 

Chimneys, Foundations and 62 

Circle, The 35 

Circle from a Segment, To Find the Radius of a 36 

Circle of Jack Rafters, Great 94 

Circle Through Three Points, To Draw a 36 

Complicated Roof Framing Made Easy 98 

Construction, Practical Methods of 71 

Contract, Form of 69 

Coping Base, Mitering and 75 

Corner Blocks 75 

Corner Casings, Estimating 20 

Corners, Making 71 

Cornice, Estimating 19 

Cornices 53 

Cubic Measure 9 

Curved or Molded Roofs 1 29 

Different Pitches, Gables of 107 

Divisions in Estimating, Principal 61 

Door Frames 56 

Doors, Binding Sliding 78 

161 



l62 INDEX TO builders' GUIDE. 

Doors, Folding. 57 

Doors, Sliding. 56 

Double Floors 50 

Draw a Circle Through Three Points, To 36 

Drawings, Roof Framing Without 142 

Estimate, Form for an 61 

Estimating Corner Casings 20 

Estimating Cornice 19 

Estimating Floor Joists 18 

Estimating Hardware, Lists of Items for 67 

Estimating Labor, Points on 46 

Estimating Lobor by the Lineal Foot, Table of Prices for 47 

Estimating Labor by the Piece, Table of Prices for 49 

Estimating Labor by the Square, Table of Prices for 48 

Estimating Labor for Carpentry Work 43 

Estimating Lumber, List of Items for 22 

Estimating Nails, Table for 68 

Estimating, Points on 7 

Estimating, Principal Divisions in 61 

Estimating, Practical Rules for 11 

Estimating Sheeting. 12 

Estimating Shingles 13 

Estimating, Short Cut in 60 

Estimating Siding 11 

Estimating Studding 13 

Estimating Window Frames 55 

Example and Solution 62 

Excavations 61 

Finding the Area of a Gable 25 

Finding the Area of a Triangle 26 

Floors, Double 50 

Floor Joists, Estimating 18 

Folding Doors. 57 

Form for an Estimate 61 - 

Form of Contract 69 

Foundations and Chimneys 62 

Frames, Door 56 

Frames, Estimating Window 55 

Framing, Art of Roof 87 

Framing, An Important Point in Roof 122 



INDEX TO builders' GUIDE. 163 

Framing by the Steel Square, Roof 136 

■Framing Made Easy, Complicated Roof gS 

Framing Without Drawings, Roof 142 

Gable, Finding the Area of a 25 



Gables of Different Pitches. 



107 



Gables, Diagonally Joining 126 

Gable Roofs, Plain 27 

Geometrical Measurement of Roofs 24 

Great Circle of Jack Rafters — 94 



Gutters. 



53 



Hardware 67 

Hardware, List of Items for Estimating 67 

Hip Roofs 28 

Hip and Jack Rafters, Octagon 1 24 

Hip and Valley Roofs 31, 114 

Hip or Valley, Bevel for 159 

Hip Rafters, Backing go 

Hip Roofs of Unequal Pitches gi 

Hips and Valleys, Shingling 85 

Hips on End of Building Out of Square 104 

Important Point, An 122 

Items and Quantities 10 

Items and Quantities Required, List of 10 

Items for Estimating Hardware, List of 67 

Items for Estimating Lumber, List of 22 

Jack Rafters, Bevel of .................. 89 

Jack Rafters, Great Circle of .......... 94 

Jack Rafters, Octagon Hip and. ...... . 1 24 

Joining Gables Diagonally 1 26 

Labor, Points on Estimating 46 

Labor by the Lineal Foot, Table of Prices for Estimating 47 

Labor by the Piece, Table of Prices for Estimating 49 

Labor by the Square, Table of Prices for Estimating. 48 

Labor for Carpentry Work, Estimating 43 

Labor for Stairs 58 

Lathing and Plastering 6^ 

Laying Out Rafters 146 



164 INDEX TO builders' GUIDE. 

Leaks in Bay Windows, To Prevent 84 

Lineal Foot, Table of Prices for Estimating Labor by 47 

Linear Measure 8 

List of Items and Quantities Required 10 

List of Items for Estimating Hardware 67 

List of Items for Estimating Lumber 22 

Lumber, List of Items for Estimating 22 

Making Corners 71 

Measure, Cubic 9 

Measure, Linear 8 

Measure, Square 8 

Measurement of Roofs, Geometrical 24 

Methods of Construction, Practical 71 

Mistakes from Omissions 21 

Mitering and Coping Base 75 

Mitering Planceers, Moldings, &c 151 

Mitering Roof Boards and Planceers 158 

Molded Roofs, Curved or 129 

Moldings, &c., Mitering Planceers 151 

Nails, Table for Estimating 68 

Nails to the Pound, Number of 68 

Octagon Hip and Jack Rafters 1 24 

Omissions, Mistakes from 21 

Painting 6;^ 

Pantries 58 

Pitches, Gables of Different 107 

Pitches, Hip Roofs of Unequal 91 

Plain Gable Roofs 27 

Planceers, Moldings, &c., Mitering 151 

Planceers, Mitering Roof Boards and 158 

Plastering, Lathing and 63 

Point in Roof Framing, An Important 122 

Points on Estimating „ 7 

Points on Estimating Labor „ 46 

Polygons 37 

Porches » , . . 54 

Practical Methods of Construction , 71 

Practical Rules for Estimating li 



INDEX TO builders' GUIDE. 16^ 

Prices for Estimating Labor by the Lineal Foot, Table of 47 

Prices for Estimating Labor by the Piece, Table of 49 

Prices for Estimating Labor by the Square, Table of 48 

Principal Divisions in Estimating 61 

Quantities, Items and 10 

Quantities Required, List of Items and 10 

Radius of a Circle from a Segment, To Find the 36 

Rafter Table 142 

Rafters, Backing Hip 90 

Rafters, Bevel of Jack 89 

Rafters, Great Circle of Jack 94 

Rafters, Laying Out 146 

Rafters, Octagon Hip and Jack 1 24 

Rafters, Raising 149 

Recapitulation 58 

Roof Boards and Planceers, Mitering 1 58 

Roof Framing, Art of 87 

Roof Framing by the Steel Square 136 

Roof Framing Made Easy, Complicated 98 

Roof Framing Without Drawings 142 

Roofs, Curved or Molded 1 29 

Roof Framing, An Important Point in 122 

Roofs, Geometrical Measurement of. 24 

Roofs, Hip 28 

Roofs, Hip and Valley 31, 114 

Roofs, Plain Gable 27 

Roofs of Unequal Pitches, Hip 91 

Rules for Estimating 11 

Segment, To Find the Radius of a Circle from a 36 

Sheeting, Estimating 12 

Shingles, Estimating 13 

Shingling Hips and Valleys 85 

Short Cut in Estimating 90 

Siding, Estimating 11 

Sinks ' 57 

Sliding Doors 56 

SHding Doors, Binding 78 

Spacing Studding 73 

Square Measure 8 



1 66 INDEX TO builders' GUIDE. 

Stairs, Labor for 58 

Steel Square, Roof Framing by the 136 

Studding, Estimating , 13 

Studding, Spacing y^ 

Table, Rafter 142 

Table for Estimating Nails 68 

Table of Prices for Estimating Labor by the Lineal Foot 47 

Table of Prices for Estimating Labor by the Piece 49 

Table of Prices for Estimating Labor by the Square 48 

Three Points, To Draw a Circle Through. 36 

To Prevent Leaks in Bay Windows 84 

Triangle. Finding the Area of a 26 

Unequal Pitches, Hip Roofs of gi 

Valley, Bevel for Hip or 1 59 

Valley Roofs, Hip and 31, 114 

Valleys, Shingling Hips and 85 

Wainscoting 57 

Window Frames, Estimating 55 



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